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Carver's Lapboard

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No room in the house is off limits with this portable carving station made from scrap.

The dimensions of the lapboard depend on a couple factors; I made mine to fit comfortably in my easy chair. Your physique and available materials also play a part in your dimensions.

Step 1: Cut out your keystone pieces. Set your table saw or miter saw to cut at a 5° angle. Make your first cut. Flip your piece end over end. Mark your piece so the long dimension will be 13/4" and make another cut. Continue cutting until you have 16 keystone pieces. I used several pieces of scrap; that way it keeps your hands away from the saw blade. Leave the two end pieces a little longer.

Step 2: Glue up the semi-circle rail. Place these keystone pieces side-by-side. Flip them back and forth until they form the semi-circle. The two long pieces will be your end pieces. Glue and clamp the pieces together, starting on one side. Work your way over to the other side. Allow the glue to dry, and sand it smooth.

Carving Station Lapboard PatternStep 3: Assemble the lapboard bottom. Edge-glue the two pieces together. Trace the semi-circle rail onto the bottom, and mark the end pieces of the rail. Cut out this semi-circle with a scroll saw, bandsaw, or jigsaw and trim the ends of the rail to fit. Sand the cutout to fit the rail.

Step 4: Assemble the lapboard. Glue and nail the sides, back, and compartment to the bottom, as shown in the diagram. Glue and nail the semi-circle rail in place. Trim the end pieces to match the bottom. Note: I left an opening to rest my arms on and to use as a cleanout. It is possible to add front pieces to completely enclose the lapboard. After assembly, I suggest you round over all edges for comfort.

Step 5: Apply your finish of choice. It is possible to leave it natural, but if you apply polyurethane, it will be easier to clean up.

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Comments (11 posted):

Larry Bev on 04/26/2010 22:01:50
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I made a lap board similar to this one added apron made from old tote bag. stapled apron to board used handle on tote bag to fit around neck,now i don't get any chips in floor or chair. I just have to keep my carving partners off it.
RUssL. on 04/27/2010 12:07:51
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I like your assistants! :-)
loyde on 07/09/2010 20:47:44
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Did you use plywood ? If so what thickness Thanks Loyde
Larry Bev on 07/10/2010 14:05:13
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Used 3/8 plywood on bottom Hard wood on sides.
loyde on 07/12/2010 13:02:56
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Did you just glue the sides or did you attach with screws. Thanks Loyde
BigDaddyO on 01/03/2011 11:25:50
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I made mine a few years ago and also put a flap to go over my belly. You can see some further details on my little web page below if you are interested
kdispoto on 01/03/2011 12:09:40
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No chips on the floor? Better check the cats - Nice project!
Inadv on 01/03/2011 14:12:38
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I made one as well using 3/8" plywood and 3/4" show molding around the two sides and front. The back is custom fit to my belly (took three tries to get it right) and it has 1X4 on the sides and front as well to help it sit in my favorite chair. It works great although since I now have a little basement work area I rarely ever use it. Also makes a good little lap table for eating a sandwich on! L.P.
nippy123 on 09/14/2011 19:27:53
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I live in an appartement so I am limited in space .I made a copy of your board and it works great.
quick_lance on 09/23/2011 09:46:59
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One of my first projects was to make this board as well. 3/8" plywood and solid 1x2 sides cut down some and routered for looks. I haven't used it yet but it is ready to go when the snow flies.
ptofimpact on 01/12/2012 09:51:45
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Thanks to the original poster of this Lapboard, I have used your suggestion, and made a similar one from 1/2 plywood, used basswood for long edge and seperator pieces, and had a piece of semi flexible moulding that was used for the front[semi-circle] edges. The piece which was 'cutout' to form the semi circle, I plan to keep and use as a brace to help hold my workpiece steady. Haven't decided yet to finish or not. Posted a picture in the Gallery, as I cannot figure 'how to' insert image here.
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