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Paint Primer

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Essential knowledge for a professional finish

You've spent months getting each carved detail just right. Now it's time to finish the piece and bring it to life with color.

Many carvers find themselves hesitant to take the next step. To develop a suitable comfort level, you need to spend equal time learning and practicing both carving and finishing techniques.

In the last issue we covered paintbrush basics. Future articles in the series will cover setting up your palette and specific painting techniques, but before we move forward, it is important to understand the actual medium we'll be working with. There are a multitude of types and brands of paint available. The product you choose should be safe, durable, lightfast, and flexible. You also want to pay attention to the product's drying properties.

Paint Composition
Paint consists of the pigment and the binder, or glue, that holds it together. The binder used determines whether the product is oil, alkyd, or acrylic paint. The binders and pigments determine the effect and performance properties of the paint.

Artist Colors
Select paint that is artists' quality. The initial price may be higher than craft paints of the same color, but the coverage and quality make it worth it. Think of your paint just like you do your wood or tools–purchase the best you can afford. Check the label to make sure the colors have been tested for lightfastness. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) seal guarantees the color will not fade over time. Inferior paint may begin to fade within weeks of application.

Brand Selection
Many brands have samplers of small tubes as an introduction to their products. Additional colors may be added as needed. Check out the availability and versatility of different brands. Choosing a brand of paint is often a personal preference, similar to choosing a brand of tools. Using a limited palette and products is a good way to minimize cost and space. This will also help you to quickly learn the characteristics of using and mixing colors.

Understanding the Label Colors may have the same name, but they can vary greatly from brand to brand. There is a universal key for pigment names that is standard across the industry. Artists' quality paints list these notations on the package. An example is shown from the label of Jo Sonja's Artists' Colors tube. The color name is Orange as listed on the label. The pigment used is PO.73 which is Pigment Orange 73. That means a single pigment is used to make that color. Another color, Skin Tone Base lists PW.6, PY.42, and PBr.7. In this color, three pigments are combined to create the color; Pigment White 6, Pigment Yellow 42, and Pigment Brown 7. Understanding how to read the labels will allow you to make comparable color choices across brands. A reference chart comparing various brands is available here:

Color comparisons across brands

Jo Sonja's Artist Colors Cryla Heavy Bodied Acrylics Golden Heavy Bodied Acrylics Liquitex Heavy Bodied Acrylics
Titanium White Titanium White Titanium White Titanium White
Yellow Light Permanent Yellow Hansa Yellow Opaque Cadmium Yellow Light Hue
Yellow Orange Golden Yellow Darylide Yellow or Cadmium Yellow Dark Yellow Orange D
Orange Perinone Orange Pyrrole Orange Cadmium Orange
Napthol Red Light Cadmium Red or Vermilion (Hue) Pyrrole Red Light Napthol Red Light
Yellow Green Pale Olive Green plus Permanent Yellow 1:touch Light Green (Yellow Shade) + Hansa Yellow Light 2:1 Brilliant Yellow Green
Pine Green Hookers Green Jenkins Green Hooker's Green Hue Permanent
Aqua Cobalt Turquoise Cobalt Turquoise Light Blue Permanent
Blue Violet Indanthrene Blue Anatraquinone Blue Cobalt Blue
Amethyst Quinacridone Deep Purple plus Titanium White 2:1 Quinacridone Crimson plus Titanium White 2:1 Brilliant Purple
Dioxazine Purple Deep Violet Dioxazine Purple Dioxazine Purple
Carbon Black Mars Black Carbon Black Ivory Black
Sap Green Sap Green Green Gold Sap Green Permanent
Transparent Magenta Quinacridone Deep Purple Quinacridone Crimson Deep Magenta
Burnt Sienna Burnt Sienna Burnt Sienna Burnt Sienna

Paint Coverage
Paint's opacity refers to the coverage. Opaque colors cover best, transparent colors allow the background to show through, and semi-transparent colors are in between. For solid coverage, choose opaque colors. For stains or glazes, transparent or semi-transparent colors are the best choice. The opacity can be altered by diluting the paint with a medium.

Mediums
Each of the brands include a range of mediums to complement the paint performance. Make certain the paint you choose has a range of mediums to suit your needs. The technique you prefer will determine the medium you select for your project. Always test products and techniques on a sample before applying them to your carving. Use care when mixing different brands; they may not be compatible.

Use and equivalents of mediums

Use Jo Sonja's Artists' Colours Cryla Heavy Bodied Acrylics Golden Heavy Bodied Acrylics Liquitex Heavy Bodied Acrylics
For surface preparation, increases maximum adhesion All Purpose Sealer No equivalent GAC 500 200 1:1 mixed with color Glazing Medium
A light sealer for surface preparation or to seal between layers of paint Clear Glaze Medium Cryla Glaze Medium (Matte) Fluid Matte Medium Glazing Medium plus Slow Dry Fluid Retarder 3:1*
A light sealer containing a drying-time extender that dries matte Magic Mix Cryla Glaze Medium and Gel Retarder 3:1* Acrylic Glazing Liquid Satin Slow Dry Fluid Retarder*
Delays the drying time of acrylic colors Retarder Medium Cryla Gel Retarder No equivalent Matte Medium
Non-yellowing, indoor/outdoor protective coating Matte Polyurethane Water-Based Varnish Cryla Acrylic Varnish (Matte) Polymer Varnish Matte No equivalent
*Add or reduce for desired open time
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Comments (4 posted):

TommyPhillips on 05/14/2008 18:13:00
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This article was a bit out of my league, really. I'm currently just using craft paints for my work. If I ever find that I need to go to the next level in painting, I'll be glad to have this available for reference. I had no idea, for instance, that there was a standard for artist pigments. It makes sense, though, for predictable performance. -Tommy
Lynn O. Doughty on 05/15/2008 08:52:59
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I find it amusing that there is now a "standard" for artist paint pigments with the unstated thought that anything that doesn't measure up to the "standard" is somehow deficient. I think we should all remember that the paintings produced by the "Old Masters" and bringing prices in the tens-of-millions were painted with colors mixed by the artists themselves or by one of their apprentices. I recently rewatched the "Girl With The Pearl Earring" about the Dutch painter Vermeer. In the movie they explain how the main ingredient for the color Indian Yellow was urine from cows in India that were fed only mango leaves. The urine was collected and dried, producing foul-smelling hard dirty yellow balls of the raw pigment which was then mixed with a carrier. I wonder how such a paint would measure up to today's standards. It's sort of like the ongoing discussion about the use of Utility knives in carving and how they compare to the more accepted "standard" version of a woodcarving knife. I think that what really determines the publics acceptance of any carving produced by a carver is the end result not the means by which it was produced.
BobD on 05/15/2008 10:02:51
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What's wrong with a standard when it comes to pigments? Wouldn't it be nice to know that something is going to react the way you expect it to react? I agree that the end result is what matters, but what's wrong with a little help getting there. Don't get me wrong, I admire what the old masters did, but don't tell me that if the old masters had access to pre-mixed, artist quality paints, they wouldn't use them. Most of those masters mixed the paints themselves, or had trained and trusted apprentices mix the paint for them so they could trust that the mixture would react the way they expected. Standards make it easy to have a trusted product to use...especially for beginners. Personally, I was shocked to find out that some paints begin to fade within a few days of application. Painting is a tough thing for me, and I'd HATE to have all the work I just put in painting to be in vain because the paint starts fading. Bob
Irish on 05/15/2008 10:09:39
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First, I have not read this article yet. Standardizing artist paints came to the forefront in the art world around 1985. At that time most paints contained high levels of lead because this ingredient encouraged the paint to flow lightly enough to smooth out any brush strokes. Auto pinstriping paints were one of the most notorious for lead content. The lead contents of the old paints can lead to blindness, deafness and mental retardation. They chip, peal and then are often eaten or consumed by small children, especially those in lower income housing. Lead can enter the blood stream through simple long term physical contact. Perhaps you do not care if someone elses child is terribly effected by lead or any other heavy metal posioning ... but I do. Other heavy metal ingredients have since been added to the list of dangerous elements as all of the cadmium alloys/varities (?), magnesium, cobalt ..... I respect the referrence to "The Pearl Earring" but will add here that anyone truely interested do a little research into the number of artists during that time period and into the 20th century that suffered from mental illness and other diseases that resulted from their long term continuous use. I also will refer to a more historically documented analogy ... during the 17 - 19 hundred men's hat makers used mercury as a binder in the felt band inside a man's hat. Those that worked in the hat factories suffered severly to the point that the trade earned the name "Mad Hatters". Artists also have throughout history suffered as a result of those very ingredients that have now been eliminated because of standardization ... I guess to some that is amuzing. In the US at that time the paint contents were standardized and many of the old ingredients ban because of the health hazards they can cause. During this same period the paint industries also began testing their colors of UV light stablity so that you as an artist can know which paints are most likely to fade quickly because of light deterioration. They also came to an agreed standard for color names and hues so that a tube of burnt umber from any company was a standardized match to a tube of burnt umber from another compnay. As far as I know there are no laws or regulations that prevent an artist from mixing and creating their own paints for their own use. If you want to add ground lead to your paints you can, you simply can not sell that paint to any other person. If you wish to posion yourself I do not believe there is any law that prevents you from doing so. And as for utility knives ... :) ... have you ever noticed that those that support the use of such knives over well tempered steel carving knives often are the same ones that scream "you must always wear a carving glove!" ... ironic isn't it. So, in my opinion, it is not an issue or cause for a fight of any sort as not one is denying anyone else the right to mix their own paints ... the requirements only lie with those that create paints that are sold to the public. Nor is whether you use a utility knife, carving glove, leather apron or tempered steel bench knife because it is only your body can be damaged .... Susan (OK ... I'm out of here to see why my Spell Checker program isn't working.)
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