Sharpening V-tools Handy jig makes it easy to get a perfect edge By John English Sharpening V-tools can be challenging. WCI Holiday 2007 (issue #41) presented a simple technique for sharpening V-tools freehand. Many experts recommend learning to sharpen without the aid of power or jigs, but sometimes we need a bit of help. An inexpensive guide like this makes it easy to sharpen tools consistently. Look for a jig that clamps the tool from the sides rather than from the top. Jigs similar to the one featured in this demonstration are available at most woodworking supply stores. The prices range from $11.95 to $17.95.

Establish the bevel. Lock the V-tool in place with the flat side of the V-tool against the flat edge of the jig. Set the jig for a 20° bevel and mark the end of the guide on the V-tool. Work one side on a coarse diamond stone, then flip the jig around and lock the opposite side in place, aligning the jig with the mark on the tool. Work both faces equally. Feel for a burr to form the whole way across both edges, then use a small diamond file to remove it. Refine the bevel. Keep the tool in the jig and switch to a 1,000-grit water stone or the equivalent. You can see the mark I made on the tool to help me place the tool in the jig at exactly the same spot after switching to the other face. Work both sides equally; count the number of strokes made on one side and make the same number on the other side. Form and remove a finer burr. Polish the bevel. Switch to an 8,000-grit abrasive. This fine stone will polish the bevel and remove most of the scratches from the coarser abrasives. Work both outside faces to raise a final burr. Notice the small tail, or hook, that forms where the two walls of the V-tool meet. The tail is the accumulation of the two burrs and it needs to be removed for the tool to cut properly. Remove the final burrs. Remove the tool from the jig and roll it lightly back and forth on the 8,000-grit stone to remove the tail. Use small slipstones to remove the final burrs. Strop all four faces (bevels and backs) on a leather strop, and test the sharpness of the tool by carving a shallow groove across the grain of some pine. It should cut cleanly without tearing any of the grain. About the Author John has been working with wood since the early 1980s. He is a contributing editor to Woodcraft Magazine and a former editor of Woodworker's Journal. He is the author of numerous articles in various other magazines, and publishes Woodezine, an online magazine for woodworkers. To see his work, visit www.JohnFEnglish.com. Woodworker's Guide to Sharpening See the sharpening stations of Sam Maloof, Norm Abrams, and other craftsmen in this comprehensive guide that presents every sharpening method. Available at www.Foxchapelpublishing.com Discuss Sharpening V-tools in our Forum