First, this is not to contradict other methods of drying green wood but just a few basic facts that lead to wood cracking.
First, the pith is the center of the log which comprises the first few years of growth. Basically, wood cracks or "checks" because of the stress that builds up when the wood dries. Once the free water in the wood cells leaves, the cell walls themselves begin to dry. As the cell walls dry they begin to shrink. The outer layer of the log dries first because it's close to the surface. The inner wood dries much more slowly because the moisture has to go through the outer layers of wood which really slows the process down. Each different species of wood dries at different rates because of the different densities. (Kild dried lumber is dried under strict scheduals to allow the inner moisture to escape at a controlled rate to prevent checks.) In the case of a log, the outer layers dry and start to shrink around a core that is not shrinking as fast, so, because of that tension, the wood checks. (Sometimes quite severly)
So, what to do?
First, the only method to completely prevent checking is to use polyethelene glycol. The green wood is submerged in this stuff for weeks and it replaces the water in the wood and once it is used, it must be coated out to prevent the stuff from leaving and being replaced with moisture. This is juast not a practical solution for most shops.
So, to minimize checking there are a few things that can be done. 1st, always remove the bark.....this is easy if the log was cut in the spring or summer. (The cambium layer is active at this time)
Next, split the log in half, down the pith. As these halves dry the shrinking outer core pulls around the "wet" center and shrinks the half log without tension because it was split. You will see over time that the once flat surface of the split will get a ridge at the pith. These half logs should be placed in a dry spot that gets good air circulation and off the ground. Latex paint or wood glue can be applied to the end grain to reduce most checking there.
If you need the whole log, the best you can do is to control the location of the checks. (This method was used by the NW coast Indians on their totem poles) Using a chain saw or splitting wedges remove about 20-25% of the log......so there is a flat side. When the wood cracks, it will almost always crack at the weekest point so the large cracks should head to the flat spot. Put this face to the back of your carving or bottom in this particular carving.
Another method is to drill a large hole down the pith so the wood can dry from the inside out as well as from the outside in. The ship carvers often did this on their figure heads.
Lastly, and this is probly the fastest way, is to carve the wood green and then hollow out the center (from a location that can't be seen) This can be done on the carving showed above. A multi spur bit could be used here (this does not have to be neat...lol.
When is it dry? Weigh the piece on a regular basis with an accurate scale.....when it stops loosing weight, it's dry.
Bugs? If they are not already in the wood, don't worry about it.
Mold or fungus will only appear if the wood isn't drying fast enough so this is a tough call.
As I said at the top this is just some info that can be used in what ever process that you choose.
Hope this is helpful.......Remember,the "best" method is the one that works for you.
Joe,
Make Chips!
