Starting point for Chainsaw carving.

[STAR]

For some time now I would like to dabble in some Chain saw and heavy power grinding but need a starting point which a beginner can start at.

For starters can you carve without the special carving bar and can an ordinary chain do a good enough rough out before you got down the the finishing stage with other tools.

I have quite a few questions to get started but what would you experienced guys suggest as a good starting point with regard to the chainsaw, the ideal and a starter one.

How much power do you require? I have a couple of 24 inch round logs that are about 48 inches high. They are about five years old and come from a Blue gum eculyptus tree. The timber is extremely hard which is why I have been holding back from atempting to carve them.

But, they have to be used as they are just adding to the clutter of the place.

Pete

[Colin-Partridge]

Funny enough I just got a phone call yesterday from a lady who wants to buy her husband a chainsaw for Christmas and wanted to know what to buy. My suggestion was to buy a Stihl MS 170. Stihl has a carving bar for it along with the sproket and the 1/4 pitch chain. If you purchasing any other saw you are going to have to buy the bar and spocket and chain else where. Not only that but it is so easy to change the sproket on that saw. That way you can use the same saw for roughing out and then switch to the carving bar. It only takes a second to change the sprocket and this way you have two saws in one. You can probably do the whole package for just over $400. Just my opinion there may be other suggestions here as well.
Colin

[Donsexton]

I don't push carvers to Stihl saws because I think they are over priced and have a inflated reputation. But Colin is a man I do respect as a carver and artist and he makes a good point for that little saw. You cant buy an extended no questions ask return on a Stihl and if the shop owner learns you carve with it and are changing the stock bar no way will they help you if that saw takes a crap. I tell new carvers to buy a saw from one of the big box stores with the no questions ask return. Now if you destroy your saw learning how to do plunge cuts no big deal you can even trade it in at 8:00 pm on Sunday night. The Stihl shop is open the same hours I must be at work myself and off the days I am off. I would say after you learn how to actually carve with a saw and not just use it for a big grinder then buy a sweet Stihl. I have a few Stihl saws and I love them but they are no better than redmax, husky, echo, makita.


Yes you can carve without a special carving bar and use other tools to finish that carving with. I will tell you the same thing I tell carvers I am sure they get tried of me telling don’t treat your grinder like a sander if you install a carving disc. Leave the guard on your grinder and wear gloves.

[STAR]

Don.

I was searching the net and came axcross an old thread won WCI and you said that you have a Husqvarna 235.

Coincidentally, that is the saw I have also. I see Bailey's say that their is a carving bar for it, but you mentioned another type of bar for about $50 would do the job. ( I think that is right, forgive me if i am wrong. )

My 235 was made in the States but the later models here are made in China. My friend has one and the best I can say about it it is made in China. Mine starts easilly, his will give you a heart attack.

So now, at least we are on the same page so I can look back over your previous threads. I like your philosopy of saving money. It looks like I am a bit further advanced then I thought I was.

The 235 has its limitations but with a new chain, it is a good property saw for me.

The Store tells me it will only take a standard chain, I will look up the manual and check what you guys in the States use.

Pete

Pete

[brianh]

The Stihl homeowner saws are really not over priced but homeowner saws will wear out faster I used to use Stihl 170 saws but you get about 200-250 hours before the rod bearing goes. I know this because I put hour-rpm meters on my saws, three 170s have done this.

I run synthetic and a bit richer oil mix than required so I am pretty sure the bearings just are not that robust, the average homeowner will never put that amount of hours on on the saw.

The pro grade saws last and last.

My favorite detail saw is the echo 310 but I had to modify the clutch drum with a metal lathe to accept rim drive sprockets to run 1/4 chain. it is the smoothest running saw in its price range I have ever used.

I prefer rim drive on all my saws they wear a lot longer than sprockets and are cheap to replace.

I am not brand loyal I have dolmar husky stihl echo and even some poulon and homelite saws each has their purpose.

If you plan on hobby carving a stihl 170 for 180 bucks will do fine by the time you wear it out you will really know what you want out of your equipment.

The rim and drum system is available at baileys for a lot of model saws
Bailey's - Chainsaw Parts > Rim & Drum Systems