[dicktilley20]

Goofy

A flat engineers file, has cutting edges, square flat filing.

Caution, this way of sharpening can remove the curved side cutting edge, cuts straight through kevlar!

I have tried using the goofy and still like sharpening the conventional way.

dick

[twoclones]

Sounds like something I'd use to reduce the rakers.

[dicktilley20]

EXACTLY!!!! the same size file but with abrasive edges.

Lots of individual methods on sharpening, some prefere free hand, I like to use a guide to keep uniformity.

One tip I was given was to push the file from the opposite side you would normaly sharpen from, uses files up quickly but gives a good cutting edge, try it, it takes some getting used to but worth the effort.

dick

[twoclones]

Dick,

I have no idea which direction you would 'normally' sharpen from For me, 'normal' is pushing the file from the cutting edge toward the heel of the tooth. I'd imagine that filing from heel toward the cutting edge would produce more burr than edge...


Butch

[dicktilley20]

Its tricky at first, can be a bit 'juddery' if ya know what I mean!

A little practice in diverse sharpening can give good and bad results, what works for one fella' don't work for another.

Experimenting with all aspects is what keeps it interesting and helps develope your own style and techniques.

Check out the Carving Forum, Ken otown post, Brad using a goofy file.

dick

[Canopener]

2X,
One thing I would like to add is "Always get the shiney".
What I mean is that if you have nicked a rock or just abraded the cutters from cutting dirty wood, and you have a shiney or bright spot at the tip of the cutters; it has got to go, and even up all of the cutters and take down the rakes. If it takes 10 strokes, fine; but be prepared to go 50 or more, or take it to a shop. The good thing about a shop is that they are not afraid to take off some metal and make it right. But; they are in the business of selling chain. Never hurts to have a spare.
Here in Az. the wind blows alot of dust and there are times you can actually see the sparks fly; so I know it can be a challenge to keep a chain in tip top shape.
Jim

[curly maple]

i am a logger from michigan and i file free hand i have never used a guide but i do prefer to use a vise to hold the saw steady.i file every tank of gas wether it needs it or not because by the end of the second tank it will need it. as said before all the teeth need to be filed the same amount you neeed to find the dullest tooth sharpen it and take all the other ones down the same amount of strokes. the rakers or depth guages also need to be filed down on a regular basis but you must be careful not to file down to much or the saw will be hard to control and also cause excesive vibrations for your hands. if my saw becomes dull before my tank of gas is out i will stop and sharpen it if you have a properly sharpened saw you should not have to force it it should draw itself into the wood all you should have to do is control it. its also very important to use a sharp file a dull file will not sharpen a saw. this applys to logging i have never carved with a saw but i assume you need a sharp saw for that also.

curly maple

[bbeery]

You're right Curly, the rakers need to be filed down so the saw is excruding chips rather then sawdust. I run a file over the rakes 10 times each sharpening; make sure you do it evenly on each one.

[twoclones]

Originally Posted by curly maple

i file every tank of gas wether it needs it or not because by the end of the second tank it will need it.

That's very interesting and following your example could speed up my carving work. A sharper chain not only removes chips faster but it can also cut a tighter radius with less effort.


Butch