[twoclones]

What do you use to sharpen your saws? Power, manual, take the chain to the shop?

Butch

[Bman]

I started out with a manual file, then went to a dremel with a diamond sharpener. Now I have switched back to manual. Kinda getting the hang of doing it manual, so it now seems easier to just grab the file.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

round file and a guide....

[brianh]

On the saw I use a diamond file with a dremel, after a few sharpenings I put it in a bench chainsaw sharpener I got from harbor freight.

I may get a better one from baileys eventually the harbor freight clamp for the chain is not the best but it gets the angle correct and tooth length uniform.

The bench grinder is really nice after hitting a nail or rock.

[twoclones]

Originally Posted by brianh

The bench grinder is really nice after hitting a nail or rock.

Yes... Trying to recover from hitting someting in a log is what got me to start this thread.

I've been using a manual sharpener which clamps onto the bar since before Pop would let me use a saw. They work nicely on a dull chain but I'd like to have a grinder to clean up those 'bugered up' chains.

Stihl has a USG model on their website but I haven't found pricing information on it yet. When I do I'll probably go back to looking at the Oregon model


Butch

[dicktilley20]

This is an Oregan sharpener, all files fit.

Worth buyoing for your big saws and little ones.

I usually use a hand held file guide.

Be carefull with the electric sharpeners, they can over heat the tooth and harden them, makes it hard to sharpen the next time round, stop and cool with a little water, the same principal with heavy sharpening of chisels on a grinding wheel.

After hitting nails, concrete, steel rods and shrapnell the chain is about had it, after sharpening it goes blunt half way through a fill.

Chuck it Butch!

dick

[Hugh P.]

Might as well jump in here with my 2 cents worth. I have always struggled to keep a good edge on my chain saw. I've been shown how by the best, and still had problems, bought guides etc, very limited success. One morning a man cutting firewood for me, sharpened his saw, told him my sad story, and he pointed out that you should take an even amount off each tooth, regardless of damage, 6 strokes or 7 no matter , just as long as it is the same on each tooth. Pay attention of course to the angle, there is usually a mark on the tooth to guide your stroke, and most important,pay attention to the hook or point of the tooth, bringing your file up under and around the hook with each stroke. It works for me. I even sharpen other peoples saw for them from time to time, grin. They don't know that I don't know, grin. Oh yes, keep your rakers filed down also, after a few sharpenings lower them a mite. So there Dave

[twoclones]

Dick,

I also have the Oregon bar mount but mine is red. On mine the spring steel *finger* which is a back stop for the tooth to be filed is very loose but I haven't tried doing anything with it yet...

Have you ever done anything to tighten the stop on yours? What worked?

Butch

[dicktilley20]

Hey Butch

The steel spring finger is replacable, after a while mine wore down and needed replacing, loose? all parts are adjustable.

Have you tried using a Goofy file?

dick

[twoclones]

I give up. What's a Goofey file?