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Old 04-01-2008, 04:22 PM
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Hi all,

I am looking to change the configuration on my reducing carver and then making home build plans. Reducing copy carving machine eSnips Folder
Right now I am using a laminate trimmer and want to change to a hanging motor/flex shaft type carver. The noise is too much and too close to my head. I need to wear double hearing protection. I have to know the diameter of the hand piece in order to draw up the plans.
What are the options besides the Foredom? I am having trouble finding other types.

Bob
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:50 PM
susieq
 
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Hi Bob,
If I understand the question right, you are asking what other hanging flexshaft tools are available besides Foredom? Quite a few......I have seen people posting on here about the Grizzley brand. Until then, I didn't know they made one. Master Carver makes one. Any of the online carving suppliers catalogs would have several brands mentioned. And, a lot of the handpieces are interchangable.

But you are thinking of replacing a router in your duplicator? with a flexshaft tool? I will be very curious to hear how that works out for you. The flexshaft does have limitations. It is best to keep it as straight as possible when running. The manuals tell you not to have a bend in the shaft that is less than 10 inches across. In your application I am guessing the tool would be running flat out at top speed? Any severe curves in the shaft will cause huge amounts of friction and result in a broken shaft.

I am trying to imagine how you would utilize the handpiece on the duplicator while trying to keep the shaft relatively straight, with no more than a gentle wide curve in it. The logistics are challanging. Keep us posted on how it goes for you.....
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:36 PM
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Hi Susieq,

Thanks for the response. I will look at some of those. I didn't know grizzlt made one and I did hear of Mastercarver but could only find their big machines on line.

"I am trying to imagine how you would utilize the handpiece on the duplicator while trying to keep the shaft relatively straight, with no more than a gentle wide curve in it. The logistics are challanging. Keep us posted on how it goes for you....."

I think the flexible shafts are 39" long, so one large loop from the hanging motor to the handpiece mounted on the machine should not put any undue stress or kinks in any one place in the shaft.

Bob
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:02 AM
susieq
 
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Bob,
Aren't the large flexshaft's the ones you are looking for? To get the power you want, equal to the motor on the router, you want one of the large motor flexshafts.

As for your thinking that a "loop" in the shaft shouldn't be a problem, I'm no expert but I think you are mistaken on that point. A loop in the shaft will probably be a huge problem, friction wise. I would be willing to bet that you will go through a lot of shafts doing that......... In the long run, replacing the router with another router and investing in a really good set of ear protection head phones/noise blocking, like Bose or the equivalent...would be cheaper in the long run. Just my opinion of course and someone on here might have a better solution for you. Good luck and as I said earlier, please let us know how it goes....
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Old 04-04-2008, 10:22 AM
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Hi Susan,

"As for your thinking that a "loop" in the shaft shouldn't be a problem, I'm no expert but I think you are mistaken on that point. A loop in the shaft will probably be a huge problem, friction wise.'

Thanks for pointing that out. That's the kind of info I'm looking for. I have never used a flexshaft before so I am guessing on the amount of flex it is capable of.
Another option might be to mount the motor further away and use a 60" shaft. That would lessen the flex in any one point in the length of the shaft.

One of the big reasons for wanting a flexshaft is the small diameter of the handpiece as opposed to the laminate trimmer. This would make the whole machine more readily buildable by a woodworker. As it is I had to do a lot of welding to make the main swing arm offset enough to contain the router and still keep the cutter in line with the center of the shaft. Making the machine with a 1" dia. handpiece instead would enable me to make the entire machine out of wood and still keep it sturdy as it needs to be.
I intend to make and sell plans for it, but unless it is practical for the common woodworker (the people most likely to make use of it) to build, there is not much reason to make plans.

Bob
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:57 PM
susieq
 
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Hi Bob,
It is just my opinion but trying to keep this machine "table top" sized would be a plus for most of us.... space is at a premium for many people in their shops/work areas. For that reason, I would think the shorter shaft and a shaft tool hanger that clamps on to the edge of your work table near the machine.....at a level and distance that would allow the bit/handpiece to move up and down as the piece of wood turns without creating more than a gentle curve in the shaft? A seperate hanger would allow the distance from the machine to be adjustable too. Some of the companies that make the shaft tools also make these clamp on hangers for them, as well as bench mount brackets. But I personally think the hanger would be better. Years ago, my husband made a clamp on hanger for me, that was adjustable for height. It was a section of motor home awning track, two pieces, one inside the other with a wingnut to tighten it at the desired extension...with a C clamp from his shop rivited on at the bottm and some kind of a hook at the top.. It was primative but it worked well. I still have it...why, I don't know. Just can't help thinking I might need it someday.
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Old 04-05-2008, 02:27 PM
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Hi Susan,

"It is just my opinion but trying to keep this machine "table top" sized would be a plus for most of us.... space is at a premium for many people in their shops/work areas."

The machine is table top size actually. (about 12"x 34") But you would have to drill two holes in your work bench to let the adjustable spindle shafts slide through. It looks big because of the structure that is above that holds the counterweight. This structure can be mounted to a wall instead. I built it a separate stand of it's own so that it is free standing so that I can take it apart and put it in my car to do demonstrations.
I also built it big enough to accomodate a full size caste of a human torso as a model. It can be smaller.

Your husband's idea of a hangar on a moveable track is very good. I like it. Maybe even if it is not clamped in one spot, but rolled along the track. That way if it began to put too much curve in the flexshaft it would just naturally roll further down the track and keep the flexshaft relatively straight.

"I still have it...why, I don't know. Just can't help thinking I might need it someday."

You would be amazed at the little bits and pieces of hardware I have kept and make use uf all the time. stuff you would not be able to find if you went looking for it in a store. It's all good stuff for inventing and making stuff to make jobs easier.

I appreciate your comments. They really have helped.

Bob
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Old 04-05-2008, 03:24 PM
susieq
 
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I just wanted to clarify the hanger that my husband made for me. The sliding track was the vertical part of the hanger, it adjusted for height...then it clamped to the edge of the table with the C clamp at the bottom and the hook for the Foredom to hang, at the top.... If you were to hang the motor of the Foredom (or what ever brand you use) from the hook at a height and distance that would allow enough movement of the handpiece on the end of the shaft without curving the shaft too much that would be a plus and since the hanger is adjustable for height (and for distance by virtue of being movable to any point on the edge of the table) a separate hanger like that might be just the thing you need.

It is so hard to describe what we'er thinking and be sure that the others reading this will automatically understand perfectly....

Anyhow, I will leave you alone now but would really like to see how this works out. Keep us posted and good luck.
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