REALLY, REALLY stupid question about burs!

[watereerat]

Since buying a micro-carver, I find myself doing a whole lot more carving. Today, however, I ran into a problem with the size of my burs. I'm attempting my first fish, called a "brim" where I live, a "bream" or "bluegill" in other places. It may be a guppy when I finally decide everything is symmetrical but for the most part it's been a fun, low-frustration project.

The part that's frustrating me: My burs just won't reach the center of the sides of this fish! It's about 5" tall and 7-8 inches long (and unfortunatley getting smaller with each "adjustment"), but it's not a straight fish--it's curved from nose to tail. As I said, my burs just won't meet in the middle, either on the convex or concave side. I know most of you carving pros wouldn't struggle with this problem, you'd just freehand your way along the sides. I'm not experience enough to do that.

My micro machine takes 1/8" and 3/32" inch bits and burs. I've used a steel, a carbide, a long typhoon, a ruby and even sanding drums, but the only way I might possibly be able to reach the center of the sides would be to pull the bur out of the handpiece somewhat. I don't think that would be safe (and maybe it would damage my handpiece?). Most online catalogs don't indicate the length of the carving head of the bur, which makes me realize this is probably the dumbest question ever posted on this forum. I've been called dumb before (and I'm not even a blond!) and if showing my ignorance is the only way to learn what I need to know, then I'm happy to do it.

I don't mind buying more burs, I do, however, mind buying more burs that won't do the job.

HELP, please!

[DiamondWillow]

Get yourself a few paint stir sticks and glue coarse to fine sandpaper on respective sticks or get yourself a rasp and work them over the middle area. Start with coarse sandpaper glued to the stick and have at it, working kind of a / direction up the side and then a \ up the same side. It will accomplish two things it will do away with any divots in the side of the fish and it will finish off the middle for you. Hope I have made myself clear, if not let me know and I will try to explain further. Some of the one handed surfoam planes kind of do the same thing.

Gene

[Donna_T]

I do fish, and I have fudged a tiny bit by pulling a bit out just a "hair" to give a longer stroke. However, a tool that I've found to be very helpful for fish is a long, soft/flexible sanding drum that you refill the sandpaper. It's great for shaping and sanding a fish body. I have all sizes of the "Marsh" sanding drums and find them helpful in all sorts of clean-up tasks. I can run them in my Dremel, Foredom, and Ram Micro motor.
Donna_T

PS: foam centered emery boards, that you can get at Walmart, Dollar stores, beauty supply stores, etc. in a full range of grits, also make great finishing tools. They will let your smooth the whole body of a fish.

[susieq]

Hi Watereerat,
I have done the same as Donna....you can pull the bit out a little....just don't bear down too hard. You are not really supposed to do that anyhow with a micro motor. But yes, there are times you need just a tiny bit more shaft length on a bit to reach certain areas. Just be safe. A bent shaft on a bit is a dangerous thing. If it happens, stop using that bit immediately and toss it in the trash.

[AlArchie]

For under 10 bucks you can get a "four-in-hand" rasp. These are half round on one side and flat onthe other. One end of either side is a fine cut and the other end is a coarse cut. Because of the round/flat combo it works well n both the inside and outside curves of a fish body. I find this tool the absolute best for final shaping before sanding smooth.

Al

[watereerat]

BTW, Donna, can you give me a name for the long sanding drums you use, and/or where you purchase? All my drums are the small ones (about 1/2" long). The closest woodcarving supply store is 4 hours from me, so I have to order online.

Thanks again!

[DiamondWillow]

Here is an address where I get mine from: The WoodCraft Shop - Online Store at Bettendorf, Iowa. Below is the URL for the one I use all the time and they last forever, just need to add sandpaper to them.
Gene

- SLEEVE-LESS DRUMSANDER: 3/4" X 2 1/4" - 1/4" SHANK #523101

[watereerat]

I'd posted this reply earlier, but I don't see it so I must've hit the wrong button somewhere. If it shows up twice, please accept my apology and overlook my ignorance.

In any case, my thanks to everyone for the ideas, at least I have some options now. Will probably try them all because I'm an avid fisher and would like to carve my favorite species. (One of my friends says we call people who hunt, "hunters," regardless of gender, so we should call people who fish, "fishers" regardless of gender--makes sense to me ).

I forgot to mention in my first post that we've got an oscillating--up and down and all around--Jet drum sander in the shop. It takes different diameter drums about 4"-5" long I think. I've never used it but can see where it might be useful here. I think it will be a last resort because I'll probably end up with a very skinny fish if I use a major power sander.

I've got one of the pointy mandrells that takes pointy, coiled sandpaper rolls but that seemed to vibrate a lot no matter what speed I was using so I didn't work with it long.

If all else fails, I can hand-sand 'til the blisters get too painful.

Thanks again!

[Dileon]

Hand sanding is about the only way to get a smooth surface without power tool marks, ...and I would never sand anything with a micro tool which is made for detailing. Sanding things and roughing out need more HP and less speed. Micro tools cost to much to replace...I know cause I had to replace one....they are extremely fragile and a new hand piece cost 200 dollars and up. I would think seriously about using a dremel or better for sanding your work.

[watereerat]

Okay, Dileon, here's another really stupid question. When you say "Dremel," are you talking about the Dremel rotary tool or a Dremel sander? Most of the sanding drums I own also fit the Dremel rotary, so buying that machine wouldn't help this problem.

I may have to resort to hand sanding, but probably not on this piece. The dimples I created by attempting to reach the centers with my rotary burs are quite significant. If it were a matter of just removing a few little lines or marks, then hand-sanding wouldn't be too difficult. Next time, I'll know to give up before I start on this type problem and things will be smoother all around.

I'm still looking into all the solutions posted here...so keep 'em coming.