Just got into power carving - what are the essential bits?

[xcaddis]

Hi Everyone,

Now that I went and picked up a Foredom kit, what are the essential bits required for decoy carving? I saw a bunch of nice Kutzall bits, but what do I really need?

Thanks,

XCaddis

[davidinsarasota]

Assuming you have the 44T handpiece, this is by far my most useful roughing out bit.
Kutzall Original - Rotor Saw Burrs (RS-114-6mm-170) | eBay

This is similar but is a smaller diameter for tighter contours:
Widget Supply 3/4 inch WHEEL Structured Carbide, Compare to Dremel 9936, 1/8 inch shank

These are useful, I'll post the mainpage too since the 'bud' and 'ball' shapes aren't included in the set:
Widget Supply 6pc HSS Cutter Set - Compare to Dremel 691 - 1/8 inch shank
Widget Supply: Burrs and Cutters

Flapwheels a great for smoothing contours, but you have to get at least several of the type you prefer because they don't last long:Widget Supply: Flap Wheels

[susieq]

wow, that's a loaded question....LOL Everyone has their favorites and what works for them, may not end up being a favorite with you. Experience is the best teacher. I would say, don't buy whole sets of bits. You will only end up using one or two out of the set and probably toss the rest....or they'll sit and gather dust.

Basic bits for heavy shaping are Cylinder & tapered shapes in kutzal or typhoon bits....half and 3/4 inch diameter (in the 1/4 shafts, of course) I am assuming you got the large handpiece in the kit. Also, carbides and steel bits such as the Monster bits, for example, give a smooth finish like carving with a gouge.... but don't let them get away from you. It's an "oh @#$@#$" experience when they do...LOL

Good cushioned sanding bits in 220 grit are very handy too....if you are going to the whole way with power.... If you are just roughing with power, then going to finish with gouges, do not sand. The imbedded grit left in the wood from sanding, will dull your gouges quickly. Not a problem if you are good at sharpening your own tools but many beginners are not and you will just be very frustrated working with dull tools.

If you are going to use power only, you might invest in the smaller handpiece for using the 1/8 and 3/32 shafted bits as the large handpiece that comes in most kits, is awkward for detail work, plus you'd be changing collets all the time....a real pain and pet peeve of mine.

For finish work, tapered/pointed rubies and diamond bits in fat and skinny shapes, and a variety of sanding bits are really helpful for fine detail. They do a little better at higher speeds (except for sanding bits which should be run slower) but will work for you in the Foredom for now.

Eventually, you will want more speed.....you can get that in a Dremel shaft tool, which runs 30,000 RPMs or you can end up with a Micro Motor.....which can go 50,000.

Micro motors are kind of pricy and are strictly for fine detail work. A light touch is required or you will burn up the tiny motor in the handpiece. The freedom of movement and control you get for fine detail, is amazing. But you should probably concentrate on getting comfortable with what you have before adding more to your arsenal...LOL.

I edited several times after reading what was first posted, to add info

[Claude]

I would suggest starting off with the three basic shapes of Flame, Ball, and Ball-end cylinder, all in both coarse and fine grits (silver and gold). There are many places to buy these. I've bought from Woodcraft and also from Wood Carving Tools - Wood Carving Supplies - Wood Carving Equipment - WoodCarversSupply.com

Another item that I have found useful is Buy Diamond Tip Carving Burr Set 120 Piece at Woodcraft As Susiq says, these are great for fine detail work.

Another item I've found very useful is the 1/2 inch diameter sanding drum that comes with a Dremel - you can also purchase it separately.

Last: a note of caution. Do not wear cloth or kevlar knitted carving gloves when using a rotary tool. The burrs will grab the cloth and before you can blink you've either broken the flex shaft, a finger, or both! I suggest all-leather gardening gloves if you're going to hand-hold the wood. Best to clamp the wood down to a bench or use a vise, but if you hold in your hand, wear a leather glove. The burr won't catch in the leather. I also wear a leather welders apron when I powercarve. That rotating burr can easily get caught in a shirt or pant leg when you slip, but it'll just bounce off the leather apron (also keeps the dust and chips off your clothes, which keeps other people in your house happy)

Claude

[Donsexton]

As you can see I have a varity of bits and burrs and I would say the ones I must have is: Bullnose and long taper, flame shape, all in different sizes and grit.

[Donsexton]

One other thing if you want to make hair and feathers get the tiny saw blade for your rotary tool.

[torpidhummer]

As Susie has mentioned what a loaded question,when I first started using power tools
for my bird carving,I invested a large fortune on bitts and burrs,along with different
power tools,and other equipment that I thought would make my a better carver. Guess what
now I only use about five bitts for my micro motors and one burr and one sanding drum for
roughing out.LOL,what I'm trying to say it's up you to decide what you want want to do with
your power tools. A year or two after my large investment in power tools and their accessories,
I discovered a DVD by Frank Russell,Furs Feathers&Fins (I'm not paid by him) sold by the
Foredom company) I could have saved me a great fortune.
Oscar