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#1
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okay, I lucked into what seems the perfect solution to the fuzzy problem! I use rotary to rough out, using big hogging off burrs, then carve and sand all that away....BUT, no matter how good a job I think I've done, when I start painting rough, ugly or just plain fuzzy places show up. So, here's what I discovered....when you're all finished with the clean up of your carving and ready to start painting, give the piece one or two coats of sealer....I know, you probably tried that before and it was just so, so, BUT, the trick is, when it's dry, take a piece of brown paper bag, scrunch and rub it together to soften, then wipe down the entire piece. You'll be able to get into even the tiniest places with the bag and......TADA.....the piece will be entirely smooth, not a fuzzy or rough spot to be felt....I LOVE IT!!!! Try it, let me know what you think, I'm pretty confident you're going to be impressed!!! DeborahP.S. the bags I use are the brown paper bags you pack lunches in, the paper is thinner than grocery store bags, allowing them to work more like a cloth...and bonus, they are easy to find!! Last edited by Callynne; 10-23-2010 at 10:47 AM. |
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#2
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Hello Deborah I have friends who have used the brown paper bag thing....they love it. I always seal a piece with clear coat before painting....a clear matte spray. The grain always raises up on basswood and Jelutong, but not much at all with tupelo..... I have always just knocked the grain down with a real fine sandpaper. I should probably get some brown paper and just try it. My friends always loved this method. Thanks for letting us know how you liked it. It's probably about time I tried it. |
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#3
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Deborah, Sounds like a great way to fight the fuss.My wife does all the painting so i will pass it on to her. Thank's for the post.
__________________ Lone Star Bill |
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#4
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Deborah Thank you for the hint. I always have fuzzies and raised places will be trying this one. Curt
__________________ GOD IS GREAT BEER IS GOOD PEOPLE ARE CRAZY http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...e/curtscarving |
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#5
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Deborah, For those power hungry folks, you can cut little squares of brown paper, put them on a mandrel, and put them in your power carver, and run it over your carving. I like about 8-10 (depending on the thickness of your paper) and alternate them so they aren't all lined up perfectly square. It makes a new kind of "floppy" disk. And it will get down in the nooks and crannies, too. I use my little Dremmel Mini-Mite battery operated tool for clean-up with my brown paper disk--and my 3M Scotchbrite and radial disc--all of which I use or have used for cleanup situations. When run on low speed, it's just right for cleanup duty. I like using the brown paper when I finish carving, after it's painted, and after its final sealer coat. Great effect. I always keep a little wadded up piece of brown paper in my carving tool box. Cheapest tool around. Hint: if you can find a store that still uses brown paper bags, the smaller bags are made of thinner paper and it crumples easier than the thicker paper used in the large bags. Donna_T
__________________ Donna Thomas has been carving in SW Missouri since 1988... |
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#6
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If you have a hard time finding brown paper bags , you can buy the material in rolls at places like Lowes . Should be around the painting supplies, it works as well . It comes in different thickness so if it is thicker than you want you might ask if they will order the thinner for you. Ash |
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#7
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Deborah, thanks so much for the tip. Always looking for ways to better smooth my NAF flutes. This sounds like a winner. Will try it out today. There is a need after each stain application and each poly coat. Thanks for sharing.
__________________ Alan ********************************************* |
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#8
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I think you'll definitely like the results!! I hadn't thought about bag thickness though, what I use are brown paper lunch bags. They are much thinner than the brown bags groceries are packed in, maybe that's why they are more like a 'sanding cloth' and I can get into every tiny little place! Hmmmmm, think I'll go up and add that to my original post, just in case someone doesn't read though the entire thread. The other really nice thing about sandwich bags, you can find them anywhere, maybe even in your own kitchen!! Deborah
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#9
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I am basically a wood turner and pen maker and I have been using the brown paper bags for years as a burnishing and smoothing tool. The grocery store bags are somewhere around 2000 grit. Another product I use in turning that I think would be handy for carving ... hardwood floor final buffing pads. The one I use is white, and meant to go on a floor finishing machine. It is a fibrous material, similar to 3M stuff. You buy it in a large rectangle shape, usually in the floor finishing department of most DIY stores. The pad will cost somewhere around $10.00 and it will last you for years. You cut off a small piece and use it like sandpaper. A small, 1" square pieces will last several weeks on my turning and it leaves a lovely smooth, satin finish. I use it on wood, stone, acrylic and metal. I have just recently started to learn carving so if I find any other finishing tricks that can apply to carving I will let you know. Cheers, Tom |
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