foredom vs wecheer

[Rwenzoski]

Hi Doc, The only time I have ever had mine heat up is when it is due to have some more grease added. The cable should be wiped clean first & I use the Foredom grease & it seems to work well. Also the amount of bend in the cable/boot will create more or less heat so the height you have the unit hanging verses your work will determine the amount of bend & heat generated.
Thanks, Robbin

Originally Posted by ragiarn

I am relatively new to carving (started in June of 08). I come from a background on Intarsia where power is used for contouring and cutting. I initially purchased a Weecher in anticipation that it would be easier to use than knives and chisels, gouges.

Once I learned how to use my hand carving tools I found that I could carve faster using the hand tools than I could using the Weecher or the Dremel tools I have.

I have not used my Weecher in 4-5 months. I use my dremel tools for touch up and some detail work. My skills at using hand carving tools is not good enough to allow me to detail very well.

The only problem I found with my Weecher is that the handle tends to heat up after about 5-10 minutes and I have to stop using it. I am not sure why this happens. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong.

In retrospect I would no go out and spend that much money on any of the systems unless I was sure that I would be using these tools exclusvely instead of hand carving tools.

Just my two cents.

Doc

[susieq]

That's so true Robbin,
I forgot all about Doc being new to power carving. A lot of new power carvers make the mistake of working with too tight a curve in their shaft.....
I think the directions usually stipulate the curve be no tighter than 9 or 10 inches from side to side...that is a pretty tight curve in my view.

Doc, try to keep the shaft as straight as possible while working. A large sag in the shaft is fine. Also, train yourself to turn the wood in your hand to reach the areas you want to carve. Avoid getting into contortions with your carving hand/arm/shaft when twisting around to reach the areas. It is so easy to do without thinking...... It takes a little concentration to make sure you're turning the wood instead of contorting yourself with the shaft. And finally, always store your shaft tool with the shaft either laying straight out on your table top or better yet, hanging down. NEVER coil the shaft and stick it in a drawer when not in use.... Mine hang from their IV hanger (hospital surplus) on my right side (right handed carver) slightly behind me and at the perfect height so that when I sit at my work station holding the handpiece, there is not too much slack in the shaft...just enough to allow me to work comfortably without having to pull or without too big a curve in the shaft.....

Hope this helps. Best wishes.

[Rwenzoski]

Hi Doc & SuzieQ, Ah, reading this reminds me first of a comment my Wife made as to the IV stand. She said I need one when doing shows or on-site & on the ground carvings, which the "on the ground" don't normally happen with my carvings! As far as hanging the power carver of any sort I have two different length 1/4" steel hooks that I use mostly & when in my shop I have a 1/2" copper pipe hung across the shop & a ton of other hooks for working in different areas. When I am on site the only thing to hook to unless you have one of them handy "sky hook" thingies is to hang it off of the carving & I use the thick rubber bungy cords or rope or even drive a wood screw in if there is nothing to tie to & use this to hang the power unit. THe trick is to trey to keep the unit at the right height so as to not bend the cable too much as Suzie has said also. Working on a bench where you are almost always at the same height is an easy one but if you are all over the place on a tree trunk carving you have to get a liitle inventive. I hope this helps you out!
Thanks, Robbin
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[ragiarn]

Originally Posted by susieq

That's so true Robbin,
I forgot all about Doc being new to power carving. A lot of new power carvers make the mistake of working with too tight a curve in their shaft.....
I think the directions usually stipulate the curve be no tighter than 9 or 10 inches from side to side...that is a pretty tight curve in my view.

Doc, try to keep the shaft as straight as possible while working. A large sag in the shaft is fine. Also, train yourself to turn the wood in your hand to reach the areas you want to carve. Avoid getting into contortions with your carving hand/arm/shaft when twisting around to reach the areas. It is so easy to do without thinking...... It takes a little concentration to make sure you're turning the wood instead of contorting yourself with the shaft. And finally, always store your shaft tool with the shaft either laying straight out on your table top or better yet, hanging down. NEVER coil the shaft and stick it in a drawer when not in use.... Mine hang from their IV hanger (hospital surplus) on my right side (right handed carver) slightly behind me and at the perfect height so that when I sit at my work station holding the handpiece, there is not too much slack in the shaft...just enough to allow me to work comfortably without having to pull or without too big a curve in the shaft.....

Hope this helps. Best wishes.

thank you for the advice- I was probably making most if not all the the mistakes you mentioned.

[adcarvings]

Originally Posted by arnie

I would buy neither, I recommend for the "first"power flex shaft tool you look at the one grizzly tools sells for about 50 bucks. The wecheer hand pieces fit it so if you want to move up later your hand pieces will travel. The unit comes with a hand piece (and I used it a long time before I discovered th small wecheer ones for 27$) but it is kinda big and clunky. For a less than 10$ investment you can get the reciprocating hand piece with four chisels (that require major sharping before they are fit to use) I have been using my grizz. for four years (actually I have two.each st-up for diff, size bits.) with out any problems. Just my opinion. Arnie

Arnie, Where did you find the wecheer hand pieces for 27 bucks? im looking for some small handpieces and thats a really good price

[stranger0429]

Originally Posted by susieq

It might be that the shaft was needing lubed.... although I have some really old Dremel shafts that heat up no matter what...it's their age. I prefer the older style Dremel shaft to the newer style because the handpiece, although now fatter and more comfortable to hold, was long and slender and could get into tight places easier. But when they get old, no amount of lube will keep them from heating up. I can't buy new ones like them so I just make a padding out of duct tape so it doesn't burn my hand....Red Green would be proud.

Hi Susie

I'm not sure how bad the heating up is with your shaft from the post. But I will recommend you to get the inner shaft lubricated.

Heat might cause the shaft melting. Athough you have some tapes on it, I am afriad it won't avoid this event from happening.