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Old 09-15-2007, 10:36 PM
TotemWood Tommy's Avatar
TotemWood Tommy
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 21
Default Bits & Burs...

Hello,

I don't always use a "standard" [if there is such a thing] bit or bur to accomplish something in a certain situation. Shifting to rotary was a two part challenge-the first in what machine to base my work upon, the other? Exactly that, the primary "bits & burs" to use and keep handy on the shelf.

There are a couple that have proved great worth for me. The "pear" shaped stump cutter, as well as "long cone pointed" stump cutters.

The pears help me with recesses better than other choices I have tried in general. The long cone pointed's are great for the detail issues that I work with.

Double-cut carbide burs are very good for high speed tool usage when removing larger amounts of wood, long rounded tip cone probably my favorite choice in that case.

I rarely if ever use a ball. I rarely use a cylinder.

Typhoons are great-round tipped cylinder if you please, though square tipped also has its place. These are 1/4in shaft for home, a couple 1/8in shaft for out travelling. At issue is their aggressiveness! Whoa!

What a way to lay down a layer of DNA!

As a consequence? While using a Typhoon or equivalent I keep one eye on my project and? One eye on... ME!

If I don't? I may have to put up my tools for more time than I would like.

Paradoxically I have been relatively lucky with these tools. CAREFUL is the word, and generally I schedule use of them for the START of my DAY and START of my CARVING time. LIGHTLY & GENTLY seems to be the motto with bits of the Typhoons style. I know of nothing that can actually PROTECT one if a bit gets "out of hand" or "into hand" as the case may be eh?

The BEST ruffing bit/bur I have found however is the triangle shaped bit-and right now I cannot remember their name... aarrgh... Careful is necessary again, but when given the chance? I have found they are much safer and effective for ME than Typhoons or sister bits for ruffing!

Because I don't really drive anymore, my attendance at shows and events has really been reduced. I tend to buy multiples of appropriate bits/burs when I have the chance. I have burnt up more than one, and only been power carving for perhaps a year now.

For shaft diameters I prefer 3/32in for those I will use with high speed tool, and 1/4in for those to be used with foredome clone. I do use some 1/8in with my Dremel, but only as those bits/burs were unavailable in 3/32.

How about you?

-Tommy...
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Web Site: www.totemwood.com - Note: copyright belongs to the author, no reproduction in any form is authorized without prior consent of the author.
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Old 09-16-2007, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 1,226
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

TOmmy,
I like Typhoons and Kutsalls for roughing out carvings, but you're totally right--when a bit gets away from you, skin and wood are at risk. And from personal experience it certainly take awhile for those ouchies to heal!!! I've had bits tangle with clothes and gloves--leather slows the damage a little but only briefly. (Don't ask me how I found that out!)

Which bits I use varies--just like you said--depending on what I'm doing and which power carver I'm using. I use quite a few ceramic bits for detailing birds and I use sanding drums and bits quite a bit for clean-up.
Donna T
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Old 09-16-2007, 11:14 PM
Eddy Smiles's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,443
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

Two bits, four bits, six bits, a peso.... All those for Zero stand up and say so! Sorry, I couldn't help myself....

I only have a Dremel and will use anything that will fit into one of the many different sized collets that I have collected. As they say, size is no object.

Like Donna I love the Typhoons and Kutsalls and have a nice collection of them. The key to stressless carving is "mo wood!"
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:58 AM
susieq
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gulf Coast of Florida
Posts: 1,238
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Default Re: Bits & Burs...

Getting hit with a moving kutzall or typhoon bit is much worse that a cut with a blade.....a nice clean cut that can be stitched as opposed to a section of your flesh that has been turned into hamburger clear to the bone in the blink of an eye.....
(speaking from personal experience here...)
Hold on tight to that handpiece.
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:14 AM
TotemWood Tommy's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 21
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

Wish I could remember the name of the rough out burrs I use the most. Triangular and "look" dangerous as heck! What I have found is that for me at least? They have proven to be much safer over all than Typhoons and the like.

I won a set at a show and refused to touch them for quite some time in fact! After I garnered up the guts to try them however? I found that not only were they safer, but for the cuts they could do-they were both more effective and... provided a better over all cut.

I do not use a foot pedal on my Dremel, and will eventually get rid of it on my foredome clone most probably. Even then it seems these are safer than the others...

I cannot seem to find my copies of WCI <!!!> grrrr... anybody remember their name? Perhaps their website?

,

Tommy...
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:04 AM
TotemWood Tommy's Avatar
TotemWood Tommy
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 21
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

For quite a while I actually considered NOT signing my canes for that very reason... <grin> I mean with DNA tests and everything? ;-) Hhehehhhh...

Kutzall's or ohmygosh-TYPHOONS? <shudder> Your advice is accurate indeed. About the only time I use Typhoons now are when I cannot get the triangular burs to work.

What's more? For those who consider rotaries "cheating?" With the triangular burs? It is soooo close to simply going in with a gouge and taking repeated chips or gouge cuts imho, even they have no argument. Resulting CUTS can look much the same as well...

-still can't find my WCI's for some reason... <grumble> and can't remember enough of their names to google them...

,

Tommy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by susieq
Getting hit with a moving kutzall or typhoon bit is much worse that a cut with a blade.....a nice clean cut that can be stitched as opposed to a section of your flesh that has been turned into hamburger clear to the bone in the blink of an eye.....
(speaking from personal experience here...)
Hold on tight to that handpiece.
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Web Site: www.totemwood.com - Note: copyright belongs to the author, no reproduction in any form is authorized without prior consent of the author.
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:18 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Athens Ontario, Canada
Posts: 440
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

I too like to remember the name of the Bur I use and like,it is triangular 1/4" and it sure takes the wood off clean I wish I had got more of them but I too forgot where from???? anybody knows what I am talking of?
Alice
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  #8  
Old 09-18-2007, 06:33 PM
Carving Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 301
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

Is this the one you were looking for? Rotary Chisel?

http://www.rotarychisel.com/
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  #9  
Old 09-18-2007, 09:36 PM
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Posts: 2,443
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

Now that sucker looks like it could remove some serious skin!
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  #10  
Old 09-19-2007, 01:18 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 105
Default Re: Bits & Burs...

I mainly use Kutzall and Rubby carvers for my intarsia. I've had a couple of close calls with the Kutzall, but so far have managed to keep the damage to skin at a minimum. I was wondering would it be dangerous to wear a leather glove on the left hand when using the Kutzall? I haven't but I've thought about it.
Keith
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