[Baldy]

Where can you find a supply of tin-foil? I presume you are not talking about aluminum foil.
Dick

[BobD]

Sorry...aluminum foil is what I was talking about...
Bob

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Yep me too......always been "tin foil" to us ol folk lol

[Just Carving]

Great post Susan. If I could get myself to go back to stones, I would. But for now here's what I am doing. I'd post pics, but I think the explanation is pretty self-sufficient. If not, let me know.

I have several approaches to sharpening--all of which use the "Scarp Sharp" method. "Scary sharp" means using various grits of wet n dry sandpaper or emery paper--starting with 100-120 and working your way up to 2000.

If I am making a tool, I grind the profile of the tool to the shape I want. Then starting with 100 or 120 grit, I sand back and forth 20 strokes at a time, holding the tool at the desired angle, and periodically checking the line (see below) until the metal is smooth, i.e. the paper isn't really doing much. Then I move on to 220 or 240 grit. Same thing. Then I move on to 400 grit. Then 800 grit. Then 1000 grit. The tool should be almost mirror finished by now. Then I polish it with 2000 grit. BTW--you can buy the paper at any hardware store or auto parts store. The higher grits are usually easier found at the auto parts stores where the body work supplies can be found. You don't necessarily need to go to 1000 or 2000 grit, but the tool looks nicer, and slides through the wood a little easier.

The key thing I am doing is checking the edge of the tool for a thin white line--which is an indicator of a dull edge. To see the white line, turn the tool's cutting edge up under a light, and slowly pivot the tool until you see a reflection of the light on the edge of the blade. I check this while I am sharpening. Once I see the white line begin to diminish, and/or disappear in spots, I pay more attention to how I am applying pressure to the tool. If I have a white line on the edge at one side of the tool, I apply a little more pressure to that side until the edge is gone or the line is the same thickness all the way across the tool. Sometimes marking the tool with a black permanent marker helps me to keep the tool even when I am swiping the tool across the sandpaper, i.e. not too much pressure on one side or the other. I continue until the white line is gone, and the tool is sharp. Then I hone it. Then I get a box of band-aids!

If the tool is dull, i.e. it isn't cutting the wood well, then I hone/strop the tool first, and then see if it cuts through the end grain of a piece of basswood. If it does, then it's good. If not, then I take out the scary sharp paper, and sharpen the tool. Usually I start with 400 grit and see whether that solves the problem. For the most part, if I need to do anything more than hone, I just use the 400 grit paper, and then hone, and I am good to go.

If the tool is chipped or broken, then I go to the coarser paper, starting with 220 and rework the tool while holding it's original bevel as best as I can. If the tool is really bad, then I treat it like I am making a new tool.

I have found that laying the tool flat while sharpening does yield a thinner tool thereby making it easier to cut through the wood. But the downside is the tool is thinner, and thereby more fragile--making it more susceptible to breakage during use if the tool is used improperly.

If you want to try this method, practice with an an old non-serrated knife--like a kitchen paring knife, or a putty knife or a paint scraper and give it a shot. You might not need to start with 120 grit all the time. If there is an edge, start at 400 grit--and see what happens. If it seems like it is taking forever--more than 10-20 minutes or so, to see some good results, then go back to 240 grit until you see some results. Then continue on to the 400 grit, 800 grit, and so on. If you're successful, you'll have a nice back-up carving knife, or the scraper can make some mean carving and roughout tools. They might even become your favorite.

As far as my set-up, it's in the bag--literally. I keep a piece of masonite which I clamp that and the sandpaper to my bench in a doubled-up food shopping plastic bag with pieces of paneling cut to the same size as the sandpaper that I use as dividers between the different grits of paper.. The clamps are two heavy duty spring clamps. I just make sure I don't get too close to the clamps with the tool that's being sharpened. I have several different strops--all with leather on a piece of wood and I use the white honing compound. I have the Flexcut yellow compound, but I prefer to use the white compound--I get better results. When I am not using the sharpening "set-up", I slip the loops of the plastic bag over the hook of a hanger, and hang it up in the closet where I store my wood. Also, one other thing, keep a bottle of Windex and a roll of paper towels handy for cleaning up. The grit from sharpening can be messy, so from time to time, take a swipe with a paper towel wet with Windex. Cleans up nice.

BTW--I tried using stones a while back. I had a kit with the white and gray Arkansas stones and a can of oil. I do much better with the scary sharp method then I could ever do with stones. So, I stick with what works for me.

[hobo]

SUSAN, Im very sorry but if i had to do all that to get my tools sharp. I would cry a bucket full.