Step 258: Sign your work! Absolutely, every time, always! I am signing mine with a pencil on the back. You can also carve your initials or name into this area.
Step 259: I am going to use my favorite finish, boiled linseed oil. I have clean newspapers down on my table and then a piece of scrap board then my carving. Oil can move the printer's ink of newspaper so the scrap board protects the work. In the pan I have mixed one part boiled linseed oil with one part turpentine. You can also use paint thinner or mineral spirits for the thinner.
Stir the mix well, don't shake as you don't want bubbles.
Brush one coat to the face of the work ... Now, for me that means flood the wood so that I have some nice puddles! Be generous.
Step 260: When you have it nicely swimming in oil go back and continue to brush over the carving. Move the heavy puddles out into areas where the oil is disappearing quickly.
Step 261: Wipe everything with a clean, lint free cloth to remove the excess. Now set this aside for an hour or two ... the front porch is a good place so that you don't stink up the studio.
OK ... this is where one of my editors would say to me "Susan, is that a cotton cloth or synthetic?" And I would reply "Well, BobD, it's cotton, any old t-shirt will work wonderfully and old cotton socks work great too!"
And when this first coat has set awhile turn the piece over to do the back.
Step 262: I have worked my second coat of oil and it's ready to set until tomorrow.
There are two things you should know about boiled linseed oil finish ... it has the big disadvantage that it will yellow the wood over time. But it also has a huge advantage ... it will yellow the wood over time

Yep!
As this plain Jane no character basswood plaque ages the linseed oil finish will add more and more color and charm to your carving.
When you are finished with the oil in each step take your newspaper and rags outside. These are very flamiable. I will soak the rags and paper when I am completely done is soapy water to break the oil down.
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