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New Projects and Works in Progress (WIP) | |||
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#1
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| After a long absence I am going to try another WIP. This is a carving of St. Francis for a friend of my Mom. I got in a little bit of trouble because I was supposed to start this months ago. When I made the sad Indian WIP some people had a lot of questions about the pointing method and not being a teacher some people didn’t understand. So I thought I would give it another try to show you how I do it. First picture shows the wood to be carved with two boards underneath it, the larger white board is a surface for the pointer to sit on and the other is a ¼ inch thick reference base that is the exact same size as the reference base (A) on the next picture with the sculpture and that base is ½ inch thick. The reason for two different thicknesses on the reference bases is so that I can get a one inch thick base for my carving I look for an area on the sculpture to start. I always pick a point that closest to me like his bent knee. His right knee stick out the farthest in the area I want to carve. So I make a 1/8 inch ball with the clay and put it on the knee on the sculpture as the next two pictures show. The next picture shows the pointer (surface gage). I roughly line the pointer left or right to the ball of clay I just put on and keep the pointer against the reference base (B).
__________________ My WCI Photos: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ry.php?cat=746 My Web site: http://www.andrewwillburger.com Last edited by A Willburger; 12-08-2008 at 02:37 PM. |
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#2
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| Next I move the L shaped bar till it touches the right hand side of the reference base (C) and tighten the screw to lock it in place. Now my pointer has two point of reference the front of the pointers base and the L shaped bar. Now the next picture, I move the pointer in to touch the clay ball (D) using the adjustments (E) and (F). Adjustment (G) is what I use last it is a fine adjustment if I need it. Next picture shows the pointer and the wood. Always start with the L shaped bar touching the right side of the reference base (H) and push the pointer till it touches the wood. The gap (I) is the amount of wood that needs to be removed. The next picture shows that two inches of wood to be removed. I roughly mark were his right hand is and his foot are (they stick out further than the knee) and get out the big gouges and mallet and bang away.
__________________ My WCI Photos: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ry.php?cat=746 My Web site: http://www.andrewwillburger.com |
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#3
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| Next picture shows my progress. The gap (I) is a lot smaller. Next picture. Always starting with the L shaped bar against the right side of the reference base move towards the wood and then I mark with a pencil a horizontal and a vertical lines were to pointer is on the wood. Using smaller gouges I go deeper in and checking periodically with the pointer till the base of the pointer just touches the reference base. As the next picture shows I gently push the pointer into the wood just to make a mark then I make an X and that is were the knee is on my carving plus the thickness of the little clay ball. I make the clay balls to give myself a little extra wood. After a while you can go quit fast doing this. The sculpture and the carving are roughly the same height and close to each other so I don’t need to move much.
__________________ My WCI Photos: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ry.php?cat=746 My Web site: http://www.andrewwillburger.com |
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#4
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| This is my carving all roughed out. Soon I will take it off the bases. It is a pain to carve the lower part of the carving with the big bases. I like to put the carving on a carving arm because I then can move it to any angle I want. By the way the carving is 23 inches tall. Andy
__________________ My WCI Photos: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ry.php?cat=746 My Web site: http://www.andrewwillburger.com Last edited by A Willburger; 12-02-2008 at 12:37 PM. |
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#5
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You are a very patient planner. More than me by far. A real good method to transfer subject material and you seem to have it down pat. This is going to look good when finished. Hope you plan on showing us.
__________________ Bob |
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#6
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This is going to be excellent when it's finished, thanks for taking the time to post all this I will be watching the progress. Carl
__________________ I know and can see clearly exactly what, I want to carve. But on the long journey from my head through my arms, So much is lost before it gets to my fingers and tools. Niin paljon puita, niin vähän aikaa R.I.P Cliff Letty. June, 17 1937-Jan,8 2009 My WCI Gallery My Etsy store My Youtube Videos |
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#7
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I will be posting my progress. I am a slow carver so it will take a while. Andy
__________________ My WCI Photos: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ry.php?cat=746 My Web site: http://www.andrewwillburger.com |
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#8
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You explained it well Andy - thank you. I was wondering about this process when you posted the sad Indian WIP. I can definitely see the benefits of taking this approach. I'm working on a Samuri and find myself second guessing where the body parts are in the wood. This slows me down alot for fear of removing too much wood. I see this technique taking some time as well but it would reassure that the depth is correct from the start. I can see this helpful for roughing out using the band saw for certain carvings. That is going to be an impressive carving when complete. It already looks good in the rough stage. Patrick |
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#9
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Wow Andy! Very nice... thanks for the pointing device tutorial!
__________________ Just plain Fred F.W.P. Cool Cool |
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#10
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Very good instructions Andy, where can you get the pionter systom. Feb
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/gutarmf@webtv.net MA, burning and carving is not the same as playing with matches and knives. |
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