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#1
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| Question for you, I've started a new carving. Its 1 3/4" X 16" X 8 feet, 75 year old, I think Pine. I'm going to do a relief carving on both sides. There will be occasional irregular holes all the way through. I'm leaving a 1" solid (uncarved) border all around so the carved area would be 16"-2"=14". This is all one piece, for now and forever more I hope. I'm planning on nesting this carving in a steel strap all around and just retain the wood within. No fasteners, maybe pins going thru oversize holes in the wood picking up the steel frame. Do you think the carving will hold together and not split?
__________________ Bob Last edited by xsailer; 04-20-2008 at 09:33 AM. |
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#2
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Thats quite a project . As to what will happen to the wood there are too many experts here for me to answer, they would be much more informed than I am. My only thought would be about how dry the wood is. I have seen 100 year old carving where pieces have just poped off , which I assumed was from the moisture in the air causing it to flex. But I hope you post pics I would love to watch it . ! Ash |
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#3
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Ashbys, As requested I've added Pics. I intend to carve both sides at the same time to help relieve pressures and hopefully stabalize the work as I go. I've had to stop for a while to fill a few orders but anxiously look forward to starting again. I had thought of covering the entire piece in a plastic bag with water in it for a time. I haven't the experience to know if this will help or hurt because of the age of the wood. The wood is very comfortable to carve by hand although I am using the mallet in a few intances. So far though mostly hand work. I also need to add the steel frame around the piece before I do too much more carving, I think.
__________________ Bob |
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#4
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I did a double sided carving not long ago, and I'll offer you a tip. Go to a store and pick up some sheets of large bubble wrap, the stuff they use for packaging and lay about three layers down under your project, it will protect the part already carved,and is strong enough to support the carving as you carve the opposite one. Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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#5
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squbrigg, Hadn't thought of bubble wrap. I have several drafting table sand bags I was going to use but bubble wrap might be better. How thick was the wood you carved?
__________________ Bob |
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#6
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Your biggest advantage to counter the wood moving is the fact you are carving both sides. I wouldn'd do a thing to it,,least of all sealing it in some bag with water in it. If you read the links that Brian Bailey had generously posted concerning wood,,stability,,movement,,drying etc. you will find that even moldings should be relieved on the back side as well as sealed in some way before installation. By carving/relieving both sides you greatly lessen the chance for warping and distortion of the final piece. Since the wood is carving fine,,and you're doing both sides,,adding water to the equation ,,especially after it's already dry,,you're adding more problems to the equation that could come back to haunt you later on. Let alone applying a finish over wood that has now soaked up more moisture. You want to keep the wood at equilibrium as much as possible,,I wouldn't mess with that by adding water to it. Carve it,,seal it and call it done. I recently did some trees,,6 inches thick,,4 ft wide 11 ft long in glued up cherry ,,along with what were the trunks 10 ft tall 5 inch thick and 12 inches wide. They were finished both sides before installation and the movement has been minimal. Whereas,,,I did some 20 ft mouldings,,15 inches wide and the company I sent them to didn't finish both sides,,Man,,you should have seen those things warp.Almost to the point of ruining my work. Basically ..what you do to one side,,do it to the other. Carve one side,,carve or relieve the other,,seal and paint one side,,at least seal and prime the other. |
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#7
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Mark, You've confirmed what I was thinking, carving on both sides would maybe not eliminate but greatly help with warpage. I have done a few reliefs on one side and experienced trouble with warpage. Not a problem though, I just relieved the back side and not problem. Originally I was going to carve one side on this piece but thought, Hey lets carve the other side and walla maybe no warpage. Thanks for your watering opinion. I really didn't want to do it but remember reading within the forum some folks doing that. I
__________________ Bob |
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#8
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| Quote:
Kathy
__________________ KATHYMy WCI Carver Gallery Images http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...3480&protype=1 The Flute Portal http://www.fluteportal.com Back Roads and Tall Trees |
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#9
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Hello Mottles, I wondered if you might jump in especially since I read and commented on your very good and interestingly technical comments with several forum carvers about your large relief. I'm looking forward to follow on your project. Like I explained I've had to put this on the back burners for a while but I intend to share my progress albiet however slow it is.
__________________ Bob |
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#10
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I have been working on my 'large for me' lol project off and on too. I'm cutting the 1 inch deep horizontal cuts Mark suggested in the backs of the panels. Also, working on the composition of the relief, when I get the ground work done I'll post some images. I hope you will follow along and please give suggestions for improvement. That is how we learn! I'm really interested in following your relief it's going to be a beauty. Kathy
__________________ KATHYMy WCI Carver Gallery Images http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...3480&protype=1 The Flute Portal http://www.fluteportal.com Back Roads and Tall Trees Last edited by Mottles; 04-20-2008 at 07:47 PM. |
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