[mark yundt]

No problem, glad to be of some help ( I hope)
Though some of the pics aren't true capitals I thought they might inspire you some how to incorporate the designs into one of your pieces. I seem to be inclined lately to use not so much of a concentric volute but one where the center is located more off center towards the bottom of the spirals. It makes them appear as if they have some weight to them and want to sag a bit. I think it adds some interest to the piece rather than a bullseye look.Sort of a scrolled piece of paper look. But hey,,they're all neat in one way or another and fun to do. Especially if they not only follow a nice spiral,,but actually rise as they come to the center as if it's a spiral staircase.
Oh man,,,there are just too many things to do and play with.

[carvendive]

"... Oh man,,,there are just too many things to do and play with. "

Boy do you have that right. That's one of the things I love about carving. Kitchen cabinets were getting to be a bore. Being a systems analyst 40 hrs a week is REALLY a bore (thankfully I'm elegable for retirement). I find that I'm at work thinking form, shape, line, light. In many ways I envy those carving full time.

Anyway, I finally got out to the shop after work and started carving, thinking about what we discussed and I found that my approach has changed already. I'm more focused on the lines and the flow and it's made a noticable change. My backgrounds have really smoothed out. The leftover layout lines are gone. Also I've found that by shadowing my shop lights while carving intersecting cuts, I'm able to see the intersect. This is allowing me to now have straight or flowing curved lines with almost no facets - this is something that I've NEVER been able to do before.

And although the carving cuts are much smoother, for some reason it isn't really taking much (if any) additional time. When I get a chance I'll post a pic.

[carvendive]

I know it's been a while since I've posted on this thread. Two weeks vacation and repair work on a boat that I'm trying to sell - need I say more?

So anyway, I've only been able to do a couple hours work but thought I'd post a couple pictures. After reading some of the other threads and learning from them, I'd change some of this design. First I'd like to change some of the leaf to take better use of shadows. I was corresponding with a noted carver (not on this board) who mentioned that my previous designs and execution were too deep so in this project I've been focused on making the design suitable for shallower cuts and while I've somewhat accomplished it, I'm not particularly satisfied with the end result.

I am pleased in that my surfaces are becoming less faceted. In the second photo, this would previously have been all visible facets. Now it's not too bad. I'm trying to use more of a shaving technique as opposed to the heavier faceted mallet cuts. In the first photo, although not quite there, my lines are getting better with more of a consistent (less jagged) sweep of ridge lines. The ridge line of the bottom leaf came out well - the top center leaf needs a lot of cleanup to get the center ridge straight and then to eliminate the ridge line from the folded over section.

I'm still having issues with the depth of my stop cuts. I find that the depth is inconsistent. I don't recall reading in any books how to judge depth and execute consistent depth control. I've read other threads which use other techniques which I'll try on my next quarter segment. I'll outline with a V tool to my depth, using my grounding #2's to flatten and cut into where I feel the stop cut would be and then try making the stop cut down to it. We'll see…

Not sure when I'll post again. The rainy season is starting early and I need to paint the porch and eves, and I'm removing the teak rub rail on the boat and replacing it with Purple heart - that'll take some time. And then of course there is work which always seems to be getting in the way

[mark yundt]

Well ,,I can only give my opinion and you can take it for what it's worth. Wherever I have a chance to get more wood,,I'll take it.

Now there is a case to be made for keeping these leaves shallow. They aren't really all that big ,,looking at your scale,,and this could end up being nice delicately carved leaves. Will look just fine. It takes a light touch,and a finesse to get such thin leaves to read really well. But the piece in its basic appearance seems to be fairly bold and dramatic. Heavy leaves now might not be too bad either. Also with slightly deeper leaves,,the drama can be brought out much more easily. Lets face it,,deeper cuts leave deeper shadows,,and dark shadows look like deep carvings.
You are pleased that your finish is less faceted,,you should be! That's the goal. That is a great accomplishment. The shaving technique that you are using is the exact one you should be using at this time. Yes, a mallet will leave deep or wide facets. That's what it does. The rest of the carving process is to soften,blend and even out those cuts.Mallet work is simply grunt work,,it's not finish work.
You pour concrete and push it around till it's close,,then you trowel.
Body work on a car is hammer and dolly till you get to files and sandpaper.
That's carving,,the mallet just gets you close,,it's a manual bandsaw,,getting junk out of the way,,then you caress the finish to it's final form.
Stop cuts,,well that's a "getting a feel for it" kind of thing. I can't say use two taps of the mallet,,,or press just so hard etc.
Depending where you are on a carving,,cross grain,,with grain,,it'll change constantly. One will drive deep the other shallow with the same force.
Don't worry too much about getting the first strikes even. Just like roughing out,, they'll get you close. Once you have the waste out of the way,,and you can determine where along the line you need to be deeper ,,just go back there and refine that area. Might not be all along the edge. Actually in this case,,it will depend on just how you want the ground to appear. Here,,,this is the shape you go after,,the leaves are simply laying on it's surface. And depending where along the surface they are,,there just might be places where the leaves appear thicker,,and as they taper to the top,,might appear thinner. This would happen naturally if this were a real "urn" for lack of a better term with a real leaf laying on top of it.
That in itself might help you with the issue of just how thick or thin you decide to make your leaves. And ,,it just might add to the interest as far as depth and appearance is concerned.