[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Everything you read says "take a damp cloth and wipe off any excess glue!" like elmers, titebond etc......but when you do, the water merely dilutes the glue and gets into the pores... when you stain / finish....theres a big white spot! Let the glue dry and remove the excess with a knife or razor blade, scapes off and no problem.

[Anthony Filetti]

Got my tip from Norm on PBS, he just leaves the excess alone and ceoms back with a scraper after it dried...works for me!

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Originally Posted by Rocket39

Got my tip from Norm on PBS, he just leaves the excess alone and ceoms back with a scraper after it dried...works for me!

Norm said that? Geez, shows how long its been since I saw him on TV! He used to always say take a damp rag and wipe it off? Humm, need to get out of the shop and back on woodworking tv shows ha ha....thanks, wasn't aware he had changed

[Anthony Filetti]

Well, now that he has been given all of those machine sanders and fallen in love with brad nailers I wouldn't be surprised if he changed again...

...i stopped watching after he started using all the tools no-one could afford...I can't imaginge the free stuff he gets...

[brian bailey]

A trick that I use when gluing up mortises or other tight joints that would be hard to get a scraper or knife next to is to use that blue painters tape next to the joint.

Any glue squeeze out will lift right off with the tape.

[Anthony Filetti]

Originally Posted by brian bailey

A trick that I use when gluing up mortises or other tight joints that would be hard to get a scraper or knife next to is to use that blue painters tape next to the joint.

Any glue squeeze out will lift right off with the tape.

That also works well when caulking!! (like fillling cement expansion joints)

[Eddy Smiles]

I third both suggestions! I try to leave a little excess wood where I know that the glue will be so that I can skim it off...same for the blue tape that might adhere to the glue if left on too long.

[Thomp]

I hate to be working light color wood and have to stain it black walnut for this reason,

if you do the glue up early enough in the project your final sanding can over come it.

but using polyurethane glue like the clear elmer or the dark as gorilla glue is, it foams and fills gaps and is stainable.

activated by dampening one side of the joint with a damp sponge with water it activates,, dries in 8 or so hours to sand able finish, and unless you use the gorilla glue on white pine its hard to see any evidence after you have used glue after cleanup.

you cant break the cured joint the wood will break in a new place unless your doing end grain to end grain

unless your wasteful or overly productive, a 2 oz bottle will last a year, you don't need much to make a glue up.
it has a one year after opening expiration date it hardens after its been open too long, bit unopened it lasts 3 years, so 2, 2oz bottles will last longer than 1, 4 oz bottle....

really tough to get off your skin it wears off so use gloves...

[Robert Cahill]

I often laminate aspen or pine using the method Mary Duke Guldan has in her books. I can see the line where they were laminated even after staining. Would the clear polyurethane work to stop this. I have been using Elmer's yellow glue. Yesterday Frank put up a donkey pattern in the caricature posting. That is the type carving I am talking about.

[Thomp]

Originally Posted by Robert Cahill

I often laminate aspen or pine using the method Mary Duke Guldan has in her books. I can see the line where they were laminated even after staining. Would the clear polyurethane work to stop this. I have been using Elmer's yellow glue. Yesterday Frank put up a donkey pattern in the caricature posting. That is the type carving I am talking about.

Robert,
as we all know No adhesive is totally invisible, you will be able to find the joint if you look hard enough for it even in finished furnature,

but you can better your chances of making a glue joint in wood by plaining the lumber to get flat even surfaces, cut the pattern out a little larger than the printed lines by 1/8" or so and evenly distribute the adhesive and clamp it fairly tight but not to where it squeezes out all the adhesive!

in the donkey pattern its 4 planks glued up, apparently for making something rather large,

i would just buy a thicker piece of wood before i tried to glue up one for a 6" to 10" character, but if your making a great big one then glue it up.

the fact is polyurethane is harder to cut through than carpenters glue as it is epoxy based,

remember joints can cause some wild grain problems at the joint crossover point, so some tearing can occur or splintering where the grain changes direction, just beware of this, keep your tools sharp and don't get into hogging off too much at once. it will minimize this problem.

gorilla glue or elmer polyurethane adhesive is only $4.00 or bout as much as a tavern beer, for 2 oz bottle.

i find it at walmarts and most hobby shops hobby lobby, Micheal's and big box home improvement stores it worth experimenting with especially before using it on a potentially great project,

i use it gluing up little raw end birch plywood boxes and adding arms on carvings or mounting to bases, and im not discouraged, but i paint most of my carvings,

just don't be to finished with the project when you make the add on like arms, the over spill from the foaming can close the wood surface and make it difficult cleaning it up, leave some waste to carve off as you take off the hardened foam. and it wont look like balloon people at the joints,

get some plastic or latex disposable painters gloves you'll wish you did if you get it on you...

good luck, hope it works for you as well as it worked for me.

sorry for long post im boared and talkative, i blame the medications.