When to use a mallet vs. just your hands

[-JBergs-]

Hi all and yes, I did just ask this question... it may seem a bit silly up front but please give me a chance to explain.

I am obviously learning and am experimenting with different techniques; both using a mallet while carving and then just using my hands alone to apply the force/pressure needed to move the chisel(s).

Obviously when roughing out I see the advantages of a mallet; but I guess I'm more concerned with getting into the "right" habits early on.

Bottom-line; should I get into the habit of using my mallet more often than not (excluding the roughing out phase)?

I'm sure some will ask what types of carving I'll be doing; I'm trying to get into relief carving (both low and high); architectural and ornamental carving.

Finally - what weight is a good "all around" weight to use (both for roughing out and for the modeling and detail work)?

Really appreciate any feedback!

[Donsexton]

You have some good questions, if you use your hand for a mallet it will give you problems later in life. For me the best weight mallet depends what style it is a carvers mallet needs to be a little heaver but I prefer a carpenters mallet all the weight in the head 12oz to 20oz for what you are doing. When I use my large gouges on logs I use a 32oz mallet but that is not what you do.

[schaf]

If you like precision and clean lines, then use a mallet. No slips.

[chuckbolton]

this is another of questions that will recieve as many opinions as replies-- id say use the mallet or without-- which ever gives u the most control. i use the mallet only for roughing out-- but use the same tools when only using using arm strength. in response to donsexton- one of the carving supply houses sells a pad to put on ur hand if u want to use it for some pounding also. woodcraft in bettendorf i think.

i think the best advice i can give is to make your tools an extension of your hand-- make the tool do what you want it to do. when you need the mallet to do the best job, then use it. i think i have more control for detail when im not using the mallet. tho i've seen some carvers use mallets on some mighty small work

[Thor]

Learning to use a mallet properly is a skill in itself. I had the privilege of taking lessons under a master stone carver many years ago. The use of chisels and stone hammers is similar to what I try to practice now with my mallet.

In order to not suffer nerve damage from constant banging pressure on your hands, I was taught to aim the mallet and loosen up your grip at contact. Neither hand (the one holding the mallet or the one holding the chisel) should be feeling the maximum jar from the impact. In other words, let the mallet do the work. It is not a natural thing at first, but after long hours of gripping the mallet, your hand can go from painful to numb if you aren't practicing good steps. Also, the use of a padded glove similar to a bicycle glove can help pad the nerves that get most of the pressure as well.

I use a 12 oz mallet for roughing out, and then proceed to all hand tools held with both hands. I find I have much more control while using the mallet.

Christina

[mark yundt]

I generally use a mallet for roughing in and quick stock removal or to set deep stop cuts. Other than that it's not the most accurate method if you're looking for clean lines on a finishing type cut where precision is needed.
One of the tricks to using a mallet effectively is to actually keep a fairly firm grip on it and as you strike the chisel continue pushing as you "steer" the chisel. Not doing this you will see the traditional step marks left as the mallet taps at the chisel. You'll get cleaner cuts if you learn this trick.
Now , contrary to how things appear to be the same, chisel and mallet work is different from stone to wood. In stone ( which I have some experience) most chisels are solid steel and you're driving this against a very hard surface. And in this case you will relax your grip as the chisel is struck because the solid steel chisel resonates and "rings" in your hand as it vibrates when struck. But in wood you have a bit of a cushion where the chisel doesn't act the same at all. There is a greater margin of forgiveness with the wood and the slight insulating effect of wooden handles as well. The blow isn't as sharp or harsh as it is chipping stone. There is little forgiveness there. The bulk of stone carving IS using a mallet as you don't have the ability to carve as you can with wood carvings. So the use of a mallet tends to be much more minimal as compared to stone carving where it's the primary power in the carving vs. carving wood.
Using stone carving techniques in carving wood tends to leave a carving a bit hacked looking as there is not enough control being used in the cuts. In stone it's easily overcome. In wood it'll require many cleaning up cuts to rectify the problem.
If you're using a mallet just to clear out waste and make chips fly that's one thing. The steps left from this type of work doesn't matter. But if you're approaching or using it as a more finessed cut it makes all the difference in the world which is easily seen.

[Thor]

I can see your point Mark. My hands get sore anyway, so I do try to reserve the serious impacts on my hands. More of my mallet work is done with kind of tapping anyway, past the real stop cuts and wood removal. I don't own or use a router. That would probably help.
Christina

[carver33]

I use a mallet when roughing out or in particularly hard wood, but switch to hand power (pushing, not pounding) for finer and detail work.

I think the major factor is control. When you can guide your cuts and control the tools with minimal pressure, hand pushing works best. If you have to push so hard that you don't have good control, or a slip will result in losing control and damaging your carving or yourself, then a mallet is definitely better.

Hope this makes sense.

[Thor]

Hey Don,
It's good to see you logging in from across the big water! Glad you're still able to check in on us.
Christina

[davidinsarasota]

It's a good idea to use the mallet often at first so that you are not reluctant to use it when needed.

I use it more on hard woods and less on soft. I almost always use it when cutting a channel with a V tool. Then whenever the going gets hard.

Here's a pic of my mallet. I got it at Woodcraft about 6 years ago. It was in the discount bin and cost like $3.50. It's compact so I can take it with me in my toolbox. The other advantage of compact is that it does'nt take up much space on the workbench so I can always have it handy.

It has adequate power for most anything I do and surprisingly, it has not damaged the butts of my Swiss tools at all.