Suggestions for delicate sanding

[Tom-H]

Some of you all know I like to carve small. The largest heads I'll do are about one inch. So that makes the noses and other features kinda small and delicate. Plus I carve with a pocket knife.I am looking for something to lightly sand these carvings. I think the "Sand-o-Flex" is too large, and the "spiderly" lookin one inch wheelies (3M) are too aggressive. Is there another product that has escaped my knowledge? Maybe a "softer" "thready" kind of smaller "Sand-o-flex"?

Thanks,

Tom-H

[LBlake]

My father-in-law gave me some "sanding sticks" that might help... they will be helpful in the nooks & crannies of my stuff, in case that gives you some idea.
Also, I got some sticky sandpaper at the wood show the other week that we could stick to the end of a pin or something.... I'll be sure I bring both for you to try next week!

oh - and looks like those Merit - grind-o-flex people have some micro-mini flap wheels as small as 3/8", too.... not sure how fine.

[Dagwood]

Klingspor's Woodworking Shop, Woodworking Supplies, Tools, Discs, Sanding Sleeves, Sandpaper, Belts, Klingspor's, Klingspor's, Proxxon

item numbers LS25001, LS25040, LS25025, LS25035, LS25015

hope this helps

[Tom Ellis]

Tom H, I would go for the sand o flex. After the sandpaper gets worn a little it is very flexible, and is very friendly to your carving. I have been using it after viewing Lynn's videos, and now us it on almost all of my carvings. The older sand o flex 300D is only 3/4 inch wide, but I found that I cannot order refills for it any more. Only for the one inch.

Hope this helps, Tom E

[Claude]

Tom:
How about something like this? 6-BRISTLE DISCS 3/4" 220 GRIT FINE (RED)-Wood Carvers Supply also comes in 400 grit. I've used these and they do a pretty good job.

Claude

[Tom-H]

Thanks for the suggestions, here's where I am now: Claude, I have those diskc and I think they're too stiff for my small stuff. Thay have already ate a nose or two. Tom, I used to have a Sand-O-Flex, but got rid of it; before I started carving. Wish I hadn't, the new ones are expensive...LBlake, you're on, see you Tuesday. I've tried most of the sanding sleeves and such. What I think I need is a smaller sand-o-flex, that revolves slower, with abrasive threads instead of the abrasive paper or fabric.

Tom H

[Donna_T]

Two suggestions that I have, Tom, include the 3M radial disc, but get it in the mildest grit and run it on the lowest speed setting you have on your power tool. I use the white ones and put 2-4 together on a mandrel. I have both small ones and the large ones to use on comparable sized carvings.

The other thing is one that I used before I began using the disc is a piece of 3M Scotchbrite on a rotary power carver. I think I use the deep crimson color or white--it's not too soft (like the grey).

The secret is to run both on a slow speed, otherwise it sands off carving detail. The Scotchbrite just defuzzes and lightly burnishes your carving.

I'm also a big fan of burnishing a carving with a piece of brown paper bag wadded up and rubbed vigorously over a carving. It leaves a luster. If you're ambitious enough, cut little squares out of brown paper bag, and mount 4-5-6 or as many as you can onto a mandrel and run it (low speed) over all of your carving. Sometimes I do this before painting, but mostly I do it after my carving is finished and before and after the clear coat is applied.

Donna_T

[lorax]

This is something I have wanted for a long time. Someone else on here has it, and has reported success.
Minicraft Tools & Proxxon Tools: Sanders

Also, those bristle discs remove less detail with the higher grit discs. I had a learning curve too, because when you have a small carving it doesn't take much to take off the detail. Maybe, you can try to just carve it smooth, with smaller slicing cuts.

Another source for small scale items are hobby shops. People who do madel train work use really small tools.

Good luck
Pat

[Tom-H]

Donna and Lorax, Thanks, some real good suggestions. I know that one should carve the piece, with a very well honed blade, so that it is smooth, and not require any sanding. But when I carve a figure that has a nose just a tad larger than a grain of rice, I'm doin good to get any detail at all. I think the mandrel with scotch brite, on a real slow speed might work. But so far, that grain of rice nose breaks off so easy. Maybe if I try a little harder to keep the carving smooth, with my knife; and then "flood the area" to be sanded with liquid Super Glue, and then sand, it'll get smoother.

Lots of good suggestions. Keep em coming, we're all learning..
Thanks!

Tom H

[Just Carving]

Tom

Try using emery boards. I use Shop-Rite foodstore brand--10 in a pack. They're the short ones--about 4-1/2" long with coarse and fine sandpaper.

A tip--I take a utility knife and slice a corner off on an angle so I have a small tip to get into the little crevices. When the surface gets worn, I cut off the end and it's like new. If I need a point, I cut both sides of one end on an angle so I have a point to get into really small areas. I've been using them on my Whittlebears for a while with good results. I use the coarse to get rid of knife cuts and use the fine to finish shaping the surfaces after using the coarse. Use brown paper balled up and crumpled to a shape to get into wherever you need to "buff" out the fuzz and dust.

If the paper on the emery paper is too rough, you can take stiff cardboard or a thin hardwood or veneer and glue on a finer grade of sandpaper with a rub on stick glue and then cut off strips to the width, length and shape that you need.

Bob L