Routing decorative edges on small bases

[Myron Compton]

First and foremost let me state that using a router is dangerous. I realize every time I hit the on switch and hear it rev up that this thing means business. So safety is NUMBER 1 when it comes to a router. Be very careful.

It may have been Lynn Doughty that said one time that “a base to a carving is like a picture frame to a painting” and I sure agree with that. So lets go make some small bases.

Many of my carvings are small and require a very small base. This would always require my fingers to get extremely close to the router bit. After a few years of this I decided to come up with something that would hold my base securely and allow my hands to be a safe distance away from the bit. I call it the “Carriage”

As you will see in the pictures, the router table is homemade. I made it in early 2009 but only recently come up with a way to hold my bases while routing.

Picture #1
Shows my router table, two base blanks cut from a piece of cherry, some 3M Indoor double stick carpet tape 1-1/2” wide, and the Carriage. My router is fitted with a “Freud Quadra-Cut Roman Ogee Bit” Freud # 38-104 or Rockler #36122. This bit may cost around $30 (Amazon.com) but it will last a long time and cut many many bases. This bit has a 5/8” diameter bearing roller that guides it along the edge of your base.

Picture #2
Here I have turned my carriage over to show the other side. On this side I have mounted a piece of wood (screwed to the carriage) with a semicircle cut out on one side. Lets talk about using this side a little later on. So I will flip the carriage back over to the other side.
Picture #3
Here I have taken one of my cherry blanks that I have sanded the outer edge real good and applied a couple pieces of the double stick carpet tape. Try to make sure most of the surface is covered good with the tape.

Picture # 4
In this picture, after adding the carpet tape, I then peel off the protective paper of the tape.

Picture #5
Here you are ready to stick the base to the carriage. Really put some muscle into this and insure it is stuck well. Let me tell you that this stuff really sticks great. And then when done it peels off really well.

[Myron Compton]

Picture #6
This shows now that I have fastened the base to the carriage then turned the carriage over (the base now on the bottom). You see here where I will be holding the carriage while routing. Before starting the router, now is a good time to adjust the height of the router bit for the proper depth cut.

Picture #7
Lets turn the router on watch the chips fly. IT”S VERY IMPORTANT TO RUN THE CARRIAGE IN A CLOCKWISE MOTION AROUND THE BASE. This pulls the bit into the wood and makes a much nicer cut. Try to keep it moving until you have made the complete circle. If you stop to soon you may leave burn marks on the base.

Picture #8
Here I have flipped the carriage back over to reveal what we have accomplished. This edge is ok but I think I will raise my bit a little higher to make the cut a little bit deeper. Lets try it.

Picture #9
Ok now here I have raised the bit a small amount to make the cut a little deeper. Again always run the carriage in a clockwise direction while routing.

Picture #10
This shows our result. Nice looking base.

[Myron Compton]

Picture #11
I use a putty knife To remove the base from the carriage. You will see here just how that tape sticks.

Picture #12
This is the second of the two bases. Here I adjusted my bit up even higher and added a spacer between the base and the carriage. Still using the same bit. This allowed me to make the cut even deeper leaving a straight section at the top. I taped the spacer to the base then taped both to the carriage. If you use really thin wood, you may to do this spacer trick, but honestly, I never have the need to do that.

Picture #13
Now for the other side of the carriage were I have the extra piece of wood screwed to the face. Many times I want to add a brass name plate to the front of the base. This picture shows how I place the front of my base blank up against the semicircle and tape it down like the previous method. Now when I rout the edge it will follow along the semicircle block leaving a partially un-routed edge leaving the exact width for my plate. The brass plates that I use are 3” wide. For the 3” wide plate, I made the block width 3-3/8” wide. Works perfect.

Picture #14
This picture just shows a few of the bases that I have made.

A couple final notes:
When I am done routing the base, I hardly need to sand at all. This Ogee bit just does a great job.

Make the hand-holds about 1/8” thicker then you base material. This will allow a good clearance.

Remember “Safety First” and Happy Carving.

Myron Compton

[Tom Ellis]

Great idea Myron, I'm going to have to try one of those. It is really nice to have all of your fingers left when completing one of the bases.

Thanks, Tom

[toycarver]

I used to have a fear of the router, well actually I still do. I use a special foam mat to set my piece of wood on and then I hold the router by it's handles and go around the wood. The wood stays in place because of the pressure I put on the router and the rubber mat, and my hands are on the handles of the router, no where near the bit. Truthfully, I have not tried making a small hardwood base using my method. Could be the piece is too small. I do plan to try it soon, so if it doesn't work I'll take a closer look at your method. You way looks good.

Here is a picture of what I am referring to (scroll down, think it's item 2) http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm

[jimmy joe]

Great idea and very well explained . Thanks Myron .

[Inadv]

Myron,

Got all of the text and photos in a folder for easy review when the time comes. Those are some really nice looking bases. Thanks for your time and for sharing your technique!

L.P.

[LMiller]

Thanks Myron! Thanks for the idea. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. Thanks for the photography to illustrate the process. Thanks for helping me keep my fingers!!!

LMiller

[SeaLeveler]

Thanks for the info,great tip,I like them things on my hand called digits.
Tony

[Myron Compton]

Another Forum member Mr. Tom Ellis, emailed me and said that he made his carriage from plexiglass. This allowed him to see the work piece as he was routing. So Tom, I had to try this myself and let me say, That was a great suggestion. It's the best way to go. For sure I would use at least 3/8" thickness or maybe 1/2" plexiglass. Thanks again Tom......Myron