Mortising/Marking Gauge

[Tom Taylor]

I was not sure if I should put this in tools or tech and techniques. Since it is not about a specific IE Brand or model, I figured here would be more appropriate. I have a small collection of tools. Tri-Squares, Sliding bevels, marking gauges, wood rules etc.
I have found a mortising or marking gauge is excellant for marking out chains and other items. There are many available out on ebay. I prefer on with the rule marks it.
I could write a page or two on how I have used it, but will save space.

[Robson Valley]

I have several. I agree. for repetition marking, can't be beat. My common use is to re-mark/re-scratch index lines and center lines as the carvings are rough gouged. OOOPS! sure is a surprise to see how fast the centerline can disappear into a pile of chips on the floor. The remnants of the centerline 24" away on the other end of the carving is no help at all.

[Donsexton]

I have several as well one is very old and some with brass fittings I love the old school ways.

[STAR]

I am a collector and refurbisher of old tools. I never thought that a Mortise or marking gauge would have a place in carving.

I would be interested in a speed course in

Carving, Marking Gauge - 101

Maybe hidden away in my background their might be a few techniques that can help me with my carving. I just never thought a Marking Gauge would be one of them.

Pete

[Donsexton]

I dont use mine for carving I am a collector of old wood working hand tools as well.

[Robson Valley]

Pete: Try as I might, I have a dreadful time trying to keep the left and right sides of my carvings symmetrical (that's most of them.) I use the marking gauge to replicate both distances and directions from one side to the other. Quite frankly, I don't know how else to do it. Templates are fine as a first step but once the rough saw & gouge work starts, I have to check constantly.

When you look at my Raven wood carvings, they are all basically flat-sided except for the head and the beak. I mark the vertical centerline again and again as head and beak start to take shape.

I wanted to make a dish in the shape of a lily pad, about 1.5"/4cm deep, maybe 8"/20cm diameter. Nice square block of cedar. Next, there is to be a frog underneath, the dish supported by a leg at each corner.
When I had some frog pictures, I tried to draw and cut out suitable leg templates but I didn't ever get anything that I liked.
Next I started drawing the frog directly on the block.
Eventually, I got the front, side and back profiles of a front and hind leg drawn on one edge of the block. I thought: "OK, I like the looks of those." I used the marking gauge to transfer the proportions to the other side. I suppose that I could have used dividers of some sort but then I'd need to hold the pencil in another hand that I don't have! Whole bunch of scratches of the needed dimensions and finally the pencil outline.

[Tom Taylor]

A modern one with the rule is best because you can measure the piece. The marking pin is more precise the hold your ruler. Do the math and find you center distance , then scribe from both side if possible if they do not match adjust. Also using this method you can see if you board is cut ture of is it tapered of irregular. then you get your line where you ant it chase it with a pencil. You are doing a chain or ball in cage it is great to remark what you cut off. My Favorite guage is a double beam Stanley where I can set up to distance and can change between the two. One day I want to make a Marking gauge out some tropical wood. See My post here Forgotten Woods
for the wood !

[Robson Valley]

Tom: mine looks a lot like the one you posted/pic above. My 3" x 12" x 30" cedar blanks are ever so slightly cupped. The 72" piece is about as bad. I can deal with that = whatever I lay on as the centerline, from then on, everything gets measured away from that line. I measure at each of the 4 corners then draw pencil lines with a straight edge to join the dots. More off one side? Less off the other? So be it.
Now having said that, don't hold your breath while I generate another slightly lop-sided carving. I have no more luck when I start with 1/2 or 1/3 of a log for a mask.

[gtech]

I use a modern one from Lee-Valley all the time.

Making both sides of head parts symetrical is only one of my uses.

Gilles