I keep breaking Band Saw Blades

[agaboric]

I have a Hitachi Band saw that I bought at Lowes about 2 years a go and yes it is a band saw but I guess I have never really been stuck on it. Anyway I keep breaking blades! Which is getting annoying, dangerious and expensive, I really do not know why, I think I have the tenison on the blade right and I am cutting basswood so I do not think I am bogging the saw down, but like I said I have never been to pleased with it and most people have a Craftsmen band saw and love them so maybe I should make my list Christmas list up? Also I have had some blades made that break, and I have even broken the blades that are made by Hitachi so I do not know what I am doing wrong.

[pallin]

It would help to know more about the bandsaw and when the breaks occur. What are the wheel dimensions? How long have you used the specific blades that break? Do the breaks always happen while you are cutting? Is the wood scorched in the cut line?
Many years ago I had a 3-wheel bandsaw with 9" wheels. It seemed to break blades often, probably due to the greater flexing of the blade around the smaller wheels. I do not have any trouble with my 12" bandsaw unless I'm putting excess forces on the blade.

[Merle Rice]

I would get 3/16" Timberwolf Blades to start and then check the blade guides on top and bottom. If the guides are to loose the blade will twist and cause the blade to break. I have seen changing to Timberwolf Blades make a big difference. Merle

[mobjack68]

Where are the blades breaking????

All bandsaw blades are welded or soldered. They cut a strip of teeth to the length needed and weld it together to make a loop. MOST times, the blade breaks at the weld. If this is the case? it might be a bad batch of blades, it could be too much tension on the wheel... and cheap blades are more prone to disaster.
If they are not breaking at the weld, there could be several issues, one mentioned above...twisting the blade while cutting will cause fatigue and early demise. It could be an adjustment issue between the guide bearings and the guide blocks.

All of it is fixable, just need to narrow down what is happening.....A properly adjusted and maintained band saw is a dream to use. An ill tempered saw will make you pull your hair out and as stated, you need to get to know your saw and get it good cutting order. Not hard, but like keeping knives/chisels sharp, it takes a little bit of time.

[agaboric]

I normally break blades when I am cutting wood, The guide blocks are really small and I try to keep the guides as tight as posible without it binding the blades. I have had 3/16" blade that when it works its great when it breaks it stinks. In the inside wheels on the saw are 9" and a small little wheel. The saw is has a 9" throat and I can usally cut 3" thick piece of wood.

[mobjack68]

There should also be an upper and a lower bearing that the blade backs up into??

If the blade rides too far back on the wheels and puts a lot of pressure on the bearings?? that will cause undue breakage. When running without cutting, the bearings should not be spinning and you should have almost no space between the bearings and the back of the blade. The slightest push from a block of wood should press the blade back into the bearing. The guide blocks should have an air gap on both sides of the blade that would be the thickness of a piece of paper, any less..not enuff....any more, sloppy blade track. The Upper guide assembly should be anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the work being cut. If you have too much blade showing, it is really dangerous, first of all and with the guides that far from the block, the blade will be allowed to wander, causing issues...

[Stan Curtis]

Make sure you reduce the tension when not using the saw. Too much tension when the blade is setting still; i.e. not in use, may cause a bend in the blade which leads to fatigue and breakage.

[Lynn O. Doughty]

If this is a bench-top saw then I'd start dropping hints about getting a full sized version. CHeck out Ebay as you can generally find good buys there. Have seen lots of 80" Craftsman going real cheap. Thats my model and have been using it for the past 35 years with no problems. Other than that consider buying a blade repair kit. They cost about 25 dollars but more than pay for themselves after about 3 breaks.

[pallin]

From what you have said, I think the problem is the small diameter of the wheels. A 9" wheel requires the blade to flex to a 4.5 inch radius twice on every revolution of the blade. If you flex any piece of metal enough times, it will become brittle and break.
I would agree with Lynn Doughty. Get a full-sized bandsaw as soon as you can. He refers to 80" which is the length of the blade. I believe this is for a bandsaw with 12" diameter wheels. Usually they are defined by the wheel diameter even though the blade length, maximum depth-of-cut, etc. are important.

[brent]

Another thing to consider....the width of the blade and the circumference you are trying to cut if cutting bends, curves or circles. That is where I used to break most of mine.....just trying to get that last little bit without watching what or how I'm doing. The, uh 9" wheels ........yuck.......I started with one of them there guys and I'll tell ya, more aggravation than it was worth. Blades either broke or the blade came off of the wheels. GOOD LUCK!

circumference/diameter....whatever!!