finish for handles

[Robert Cahill]

When I have made knifes it is from old hacksaw blades sawsall blades etc. I made the handles large for when arthur was visiting. but I see little shavers has denny blades and when I get some extra money I though I would get those and make my own handles .These I would like more presentable and was wondering what is the best finish for a knife that will be used a lot.

[dryheat]

If you use a dense hardwood no finish is really needed. I see you live in New Mexico so there should be some of this type of wood free for the collecting. I’ve used Manzanita,
Cat claw, Desert Ironwood, Apple and some stuff out of the firewood pile that I’m not sure of. I form it on a disk sander, small belt sander, or files. Then I sand it through the grits to at least 600 and buff the handle on a stitched wheel using Tripoli and then jewelers rouge. This; usually brings out the grain and leaves a finish that is not slick but feels and looks good. I have sometimes used a hard past wax and buffed that out but can’t see that it makes much difference. It does keep the handle from getting so dirty but when it gets dirty enough to bother me I just buff it again with the rouge and it’s good to go.

Ed

[CarverFromNoWhere]

My favorite is a beeswax dip, melt the beeswax in a double boiler and dip the handle in let it soak up the hot beeswax for a minute take it out wipe it off and repeat. Let it cool down then buff it with a soft cloth, it will be slightly shiny, really lets you see the true beauty of the wood, it's eco friendly, and if it ever dulls buff it with a cloth or you can always dip it more later down the road.

If you want something that will really hold up for a long time I would say a spar urethane, what they use on wood ships. Follow the instructions and you should be good to go.
Carl

[Robert Cahill]

Thanks for the responce I have mesquite and was planning on using that. Is that beeswax sticky after carving for awhile . On the ones I have done I left plain but they sure get dirty like dryheat said I can just buff it out. but if the beeswax is not a problem on the hands I will give it a try

[xsailer]

I love the look and the carving action of the Helvie's I have and I have several but I find myself not using them as much as other knives I have because the handles are just to slick for my dry hands. For this reason I've rough sanded them somewhat. Apparently I haven't got them roughed up enough yet because I'm still not using them. Although I like the look I like carving better so I'm thinking I may even notch a few areas of the handle to help with controlling the carve action. I really like to carve with them and want to feel good using them. I find myself liking the Zinger and Shipley handles because of the long handle and the easily gripped handles. Something for you to consider when finishing.

[carver33]

I just use spray on lacquer. It protects the wood from oil, dirt and grime and holds up beautifully. It's not sticky or slippery.

[Gulf Coast Handyman]

I had good results with several coats of Tung oil.

Dave

[CarverFromNoWhere]

The beeswax is not slippery at all at least for me and if you read most hand creams have beeswax in them so if you have dry cracked hands it kinda helps with that as well. If you have epoxied together handles be careful when you dip them, if they are in the heat too long it can cause the epoxy to separate.

This beeswax here isn't a bad price but if you know someone who does beekeeping you should be able to get it from them. I melt mine in a 4x4x12 bread pan and put the bread pan in a frying pan of boiling water.
Beeswax - Woodturners Catalog - Woodworking tools and supplies specializing in woodturning.
Carl

[Gulf Coast Handyman]

Carl, thank you for posting that link, I had never heard of them before. I ordered a catalog. Good to see you posting.

Dave

[AlArchie]

You can also get beeswax at most sewing shops, and craft centers that handle candle making supplies.

Al