[Tom H]

You guys are not cuttin me any slack at all. And for that I am greatfull. I do need a kick in the butt every now and then, by someone other than my wife. OK, I'll come back from the dark side (maybe gray) and try to prevent the problem. My knife is sharp, I have all the time possible; I just need to concentrate and practice more. And hope that I practice correctly. But one last thing - I did try something on some carvings with fuzzies just now. I scrubbed one with soap and silica sand. And guess what? It kinda worked...But, maybe with some effort on my part I can eliminate the problem all together. Thanks Tom H

[Bob_in_TN]

Tom, one more thing. Others were good suggestions, but try to avoid using the tip of your knife, use the edge where ever possible. Sometimes you have to use the tip, but take a second look and see if you can do the same thing by using the edge. Hope this makes sense!

[Thomp]

Originally Posted by Tom H

This is a question for all you wood carvers and especially those who are "tinkers" (Thomp you listenin?). I am a lazy whittler. My carvings, or should I call them whittlins? Have very messy cuts. Mostly I can help the situation with a good scrubbing with a denture brush and "Mean Green". But, after looking at some of the carvings of our super carvers on this site, I see carvings that look as smooth as silk. Now my question - could a wood carving be "cleaned up" by the use of a pressure regulated sand blaster; using fine silica sand? I would try it, but I don't have a sand blaster. I was thinkin bout a airbrush type apparatus.....Maybe a dumb idea! Tom H

sorry for missing this one tom,

i haven't been reading too much of the new posts lately, and im not apparently subscribed to this thread anymore in the daily emails forgive me ill try to do better..

tom,
i haven't read the other responses yet so ill probably duplicate or contradict some without knowing..
i think a sand blaster with different mediums may give a different finish but will effect the whole finish that the stream touches not just the high spots..

other mediums like salt sugar sand walnut hulls all preform differently as abrasives, i haven't used it for wood but when using a sandblaster for cleaning metal corrosion or removing we set the item to be cleaned on wooden pallets or planks, the results of sand blasting on wood tends to remove the soft wood between the growth rings of the wood, leaving a layered effect you would want on a distresses picture frame or rough cut lumber to show age with careful staining you could make a new plank look 100 years old... to use a wire brush to gain a similar effect.

i have resorted to cutting long strips of 3m sanding film 6" long 1/4" or less wide (film because its tougher) then use it by guiding the strip with one hand while pulling it slowly then adding slight pressure with a finger on the other hand, it takes some coordination to drive the film and get the desired results i want, but grand paw would flip in his grave to know i was using sand paper, he was a purest and used blades only...



another thing i use "pic above" when feeling really lazy is to use the dremel with split mandrels with a piece of sanding film that i make multiple slices through on the loose end flap.. slow speed works best with these single flap mandrel's and the size if less than 1/4" works to get into most places where a knife is hard to get into...

one more thing is the dremel mnf makes some round slightly abrasive buffs

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachme...188569&G=66429

i use to some extent, they dont last long but really smooth out the fuzzes and snatch out tags if chips that would make through the paint job...

[slivers&dust]

I would try something like these before sandblasting

clickable

[mark yundt]

I know there are a variety of sanding attachments for power type sanding.They are great and handy, but sometimes with delicate or intricate pieces you can slip,, or pause for just a moment too long and erase detail. Here a few sanding blocks that are very handy for doing small detail work and getting into small places. As you know, paper works better if backed up with something firm. These rubber blocks have enough give, as well as shaped surfaces to conform to shaped surfaces without killing the detail.Just cut the paper into strips, and keep feeding them around the forms. Also, if before you use any paper,,especially in strips, take a moment to pull it over a corner of a piece of wood or table edge,paper side down(notice the piece that has curled up). This allows the sandpaper to fold more easily without cracking or creasing, fitting the blocks better. Use the "handle" of the blocks to get very tight folds in the paper to reach deep V cuts,which I have modified to the shape of a deep "V".I also like an emory type paper, cut into strips..it lasts longer and gives a better backing(though a bit thicker),pull it too over and edge to give it more flexability.

[Kenny_S]

I guess I am a nibbler also Tom. I try not to but, maybe it is not planning ahead for you next cut.
Tom, I have seen carvers use cordless Dremels or dremel type tools with a sharpe tip burr to clean cuts up with. I guess I need a lession inhow to carve correctly.

Mark, I have not seen these little critters before or either I just did not pay attention to what they were.
Where did you find these, if you don't mind me asking?

[mark yundt]

Nothing wrong with nibbling,,do it all the time. Sometimes it takes 10 or so cuts to make it look like just one pass from a chisel.One chisel won't make one cut in one pass to make it look like you need it to look.
The sanding blocks are from Lee Valley.Sold as individual sets ,diamond ,round, reverse curve and flat,or get them all in a set for a bit of a discount...get 'em,, they're really handy.Somewhere in the shop are 2 missing from this set,,,a very small round one and a very tapered diamond ,,but you get the idea.In the picture are pieces of flat rubber (get it in sheets from plumbing supplies, or gasket material) and just cut them into various shapes and sizes,back up the paper and it cut's better.