Any advice?

[Mudbone]

Hi all, I am carving a Florida River Otter (not that theres any difference as opposed to Carolina) but Florida's is the pics I have from local otters and they are always wet. My delima is getting the texture around the neck area right. That area is not smooth like most of the rest of the body and somewhat clumps or sticks together kinda like on a goose neck if you know what I mean. The rest of body I plan on using a burner for the fur and cover with a black/grey wash, as its kinda slick. I have not started any texturing yet but I have it all carved out and been tossing ideas around for 2 weeks without doing anything. The only thing I can think of is using a V-Gouge very carefully, but just not sure if thats the right idea. Anyone have any tips for a wet otter neck fur?
Thanx, Tom. (mudbone)

[Paul_Guraedy]

I am in the process of carving a Debbe Edwards roughout of a couple of otters. I have collected a lot of pics for reference and the one thing that stands out is that not much is "standard", including coloration. I was ready for the "burning" part when I decided that I did not like the shape of the hips, which led to recarving the front legs, which led to recarving the body........! I am now doing the final detailing............again.

The main differences I am seeing, in the photos, between the wet and dry otters are: 1) fur on the wet ones does tend to "clump up", the most obvious area is on the light colored fur around the mouth and chin. 2) being wet gives the fur a darker color. and 3) the wet fur has a sheen to it that is not obvious in the dry ones. It gives the animal more of a "long, slim, slinky look.

If I were carving a wet otter, I would use a "V" tool to make the clumps and then use a burner to lightly put in the individual hairs....which are not so easy to see with dark, wet fur.

[Donna_T]

Tom,
Like Paul, I did the river otters and would agree with everything he said about carving and color--burning. If you're turning the head, be sure you get the neck and muscles turned and rolled correctly. That sure will add or detract from the look you want. While they are fairly short haired, they tend to have a bit longer hair on their belly--so that can be set in a bit deeper with a veiner.

I probably have a dozen photos of otters and they all look different--colorwise, depending on the time of the year and what part of the country they're calling home.Just find one photo you like, and use it as your color reference.

Let us see how it looks when you're finished.

Donna T

[chuckbolton]

tom, with donna and paul advising you-- you cant miss---

[Benjamin]

Hey paul, can you post some pictures. I am also doing one at the moment.

[Mudbone]

Ben,Chuck and Donna thanks!! And Paul thank you too!!! This is close to a life size so I really want to be as accurate as I can. I was along your lines of thinking with a V-Gouse making the tufts but was not sure about the individual hairs with the burner, but I guess thats what I'll go with. The pose is sort of squating down and looking to the left as this one I was watching was trying to fool me by staying low and sneaking past me down the levee through the bush. Looking left I was sure to put the rolls of skin on the neck and so far looks pretty good minus the fur texture. I will post a photo as soon as I can, been real busy at work.
Tom.

[Paul_Guraedy]

I meant to post some pics as Benjamin requested and just let it slip totally out of mind. In looking back over the post, I am not sure whether the request was for "go by" photos or of the piece I am carving.

In answer to the first possibility, do a google search of otters then of river otters (each parameter will give you some of the same photos; but also different ones), then at the top of the page will be a menu for images, click on that and you will get the pictures you need to go by. Some of these are protected by copyright and I don't remember which so do not print them other than for my own personal reference. Even then I only use them for reference for individual features, face shape, foot position, muscles, etc.

As far as my carving is concerned, I am posting a few photos. As you can see, I am approaching the fur burning part. Still have work to do mainly on the heads, tails, and feet. I am also undecided about the carving of the base area. I am tired of using rocks under every animal. If I can figure out how, I think I will try a mud or sand bank. Still, I may take the easy way out as I would like to get to painting this piece.

I might mention that the new sanding stuff (see thread: Finishing (Sanding) Aids) works extremely well. I suspect that when my current supply of sandpaper in grits of 400 and under is gone; I will switch to this stuff completely. I did not buy any of the 80 grit but am now wishing I had.

[Mudbone]

Hi Paul, Thats some great work on those critters! As soon as I get mine back in shape I need to pop a few pics and post
I work for an environmental department and took mine in to get some constructive advise on one I am working on from a few biologist's, and I ended up taking home and redoing some parts. One my tail was too round second my eye placement was wrong. The tail was an easy fix, but after trying to redo eyes ended up cutting his head off and am now re-carving a glued on block for replacement head. I would have had to use too much wood filler which I have not found any yet that will compare to wood once fur lines are burned in. As for the wet fur affect I was aiming for, well he's just gonna have to be dry. I tryed on scrap pieces with several different gouges and couldnt get it to look right so will be only burning dry fur. As for a mounting block I was going to pick some native vegitation while at work and try to replicate a local affect.
Tom

[Paul_Guraedy]

Tom, I can see where the wet fur look would be difficult to accomplish. Wet fur also tends to "wipe out" a lot of detail that makes a thick furred animal interesting. I, too, worked in the conservation field. Biologists can be a great source of information; but remember, you are creating a piece of art representing something where no two are really alike. Certainly some things are very important....such as eye placement. A tail that is too round, unless carving a beaver, less so. I carved a rearing horse a while back and showed it to a couple of folks that raise and compete with horses. They loved the piece and when I pointed out that the muscles in the legs would not be showing "like that" while rearing, they said, "Well, no, they wouldn't; but it sure does look good having them carved in there like that". My point is, don't let realism replace art.

Which finally leads me to wood filler. I use the two-part, putty, epoxy that you mix to an even colored consistency and then mold into place. It does not work for non-painted areas; but, I have carved, sanded, or burned the stuff. Burning stinks and leaves a mark like a gouge instead of a burn line, but does work. I also use this stuff for making bird talons. It is almost impossible to carve a hawk talon to a fine point that is resting with the tip against a limb. Soooo, I whack the toe off, make a talon insert and it works fine.

I am looking forward to seeing your carving. Now, I better head to the shop and work on mine.

[squbrigg]

Those are great looking Otters Paul, you've been busy!!! Am looking forward to seeing yours too Tom.

Bob