Adding wood for a nose

Joy · #1 03-02-2007, 08:03 PM

I am doing my first original wood spirit. My basswood plank is only 1 inch thick and I am thinking about adding wood to the nose area for more depth. What are the pros and cons for adding wood? Will I have an ugly glue line between the plank and added piece? Is there any special way to go about this? Thanks for your help.
Joy

Lynn O. Doughty · #2 03-02-2007, 08:18 PM

Just use Elmers Carpenters Glue and make sure the two pieces are perfectly flat. Make sure the grain runs the same way on both pieces and make sure you clamp it. There will be a glue line but it will almost invisable.

Just Carving · #3 03-02-2007, 08:27 PM

I just did what Lynn said to a "tee" with red cedar and it's working fine. Only thing I'll add is to keep a wet--somewhat damp--paper towel handy to wipe off the excess glue that oozes out. If you clamp tight enough--not crushing but snug--there will be very little glue visible as long as the pieces of wood mate well.

Eddy Smiles · #4 03-02-2007, 08:51 PM

Lynn...

When not worried about structural integrity I've always used Elmers but the other day at our club carving session I was corrected and told that Titebond is best. Then after coming home I checked Titebond's website and realized there are a half dozen different varieties of the same product. Confusing? Any thoughts?

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Lynn O. Doughty · #5 03-03-2007, 07:26 AM

They're basically the same thing. I've used both and havn't really noticed any difference. Just don't use the white Elmers. I also use the waterproof type as the way I paint I dip the piece in water prior to painting. When I do that to regular carpenters glue that little dip is enough to soften the glue just enough to make the glue line stand out. However, the waterproof glue prevents this. I'm assuming that it is as strong as the other.

Ron Davidson · #6 03-03-2007, 07:58 AM

I have used Elmers pro bond for years. I like it because it is a quick grab glue and is not as slippery as some of the others. I usually put some on and then hold peice in place for a few seconds and it will hold itself until I can clamp it. It also comes in exterior.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #7 03-03-2007, 10:19 AM

Trouble with Elmers Pro Bond is that it is a polyurathane glue like Grizzly glue, I use it too but mostly for cane handles.....it needs dampness to work and bubbles up and can actually push the pieces apart if to much is used...also if it gets on the outside or in an area that shows, is very difficult to hide....It has its place and like I said I use it, but I have always used elmers carpenter glue for something like this gluing a part onto a carving...and I know from experience, if you do it right, the wood will come apart before the glue joint...I have torn up a couple of pieces of wood to find out lol

Ron Davidson · #8 03-03-2007, 11:12 AM

The Pro Bond I use is a yellow glue not a polyurethane.

mark yundt · #9 03-03-2007, 11:26 AM

I have used the Elmers Pro,,and carpenters glue on occasion.But the one I use regularly is the Titebond regular yellow wood glue.Most all other woodworkers ,cabinet makers,carvers I visit all use it as well.I 've talked to their technicians,,very helpful and informative group of guys. As some of you might know I have done some decent size glue up's and have never had a joint fail.They also make a waterproof glue as well,,that's more for constant contact with water. Their regular wood glue will take immersion in water as well but for more limited time,,I think it was half hour intervals without evidence of joint failure.One other bit of advice,, with the questions about cedar lately,, is if you're going to glue up blocks as I have done ,It was for a 9ft bracket, they highly recommend wiping the surfaces with Acetone first,,then proceeding with the glue up as usual.The bracket ended up outside and it still is holding up just fine.

Lynn O. Doughty · #10 03-03-2007, 05:24 PM

I too have used the new urethane glues but will probably never bother with them again. Like Dave says you have to wet each side and then deal with the mess once it's glued up. Elmers or Titebond washes off with soap and water, that urethane stuff only comes off when your skin wears off. Also, no matter how small a quantity of it you buy you end up tossing half of it into the trash as once you open it it goes off. Planned obselecence? As Dave also said, I've never experienced an Elmers or Titebond joint coming apart if it was glued properly so my advice is to just grab the one that has the cheapest price. It will work just as good as the other.