[kookiemomster48]

I'm in the "earn while you learn" stage right now. Having worked many crafts over many years I have some skills that seem to apply fairly well. I've no money for tools so we're making them and making do.
So far I've found that pull type paint scrapers have been my best bet for getting all the bark off Oklahoma red (?) cedar. I'm using that almost exclusively as it is what has been cut or broken off from last winter's ice storm.
I put my sticks in a vise and scrape. I finish cleaning with a small knife and various picks, tiny chisels, rasps, files, whatever works. Then I hand sand using sapphire papers or use my dremel for more serious sanding.
I'd like to learn a lot more but first I need to speed up the peeling process. It can take up to 20 hours to get one five foot stick ready to decorate or carve.
Any suggestions on getting the bark off more quickly? (BTW I do scrape and sand with the wind at my back outside or with a dust mask).
Oh, I'm a disabled almost senior with arthritis, spine damage and carpal tunnel. Its not going to stop me, however!

[nameless]

So, I am hearing that the branch is relatively cured and dried with the bark on. I know what a bear it can be to remove some kinds of dried bark.
Some of the methods that seem to work for me;
Soak the stick in water to soften the bark a bit.
I find that altering the 'size' of the bark, in relation to the branch, will disaffix it from the wood.
'Burnishing' the bark, with some vigorous 'armstrong' burnishing action (will disaffix the bark from the cooler wood), with a burnisher; whether you use a jeweler's burnisher, or a polished rod of metal, steel being the best, but I have used all kinds, even a polished rock will work fine. You can find corners that will fit into about any niches in the branch. The vigorous action will heat the bark and therefore cause it to 'expand' right off the branch.
Wet or dry, it works for me; even the most tenaciously wedded bark! Sometimes whacking the stuff with a smooth faced hammer (a lot of smaller well controlled taps work well) expands the bark like a chicken breast under a meat hammer.
Sometimes, the adhered bark is more interesting than the wood below and can be left alone. Maybe a bit of steelwool and linseed oil..
Also, if you are going to carve, dont bother to finish the surface too well, you're going to carve it away anyway.
I just thought, if you have the stick whittled/stripped from most of the outter bark, perhaps soma liberal application of some linseed oil, enough to penetrate the bark might do the trick. I'd thin the oil with some mineral spirits about 50/50 for quick penetration.
Just a thought. Might just wipe right off!
Or, if nothing helps, let your fingers do the walking and use those twenty hours wisely, a bit of meditation, perhaps? Playing some good music helps also...
Well, I hope that this helps.
Good luck
You're welcome.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I usually use a drawknife and a linoleum knife to get bark off.

[kookiemomster48]

Awesome! I might be able to afford a linoleum knife, or even have one in the barn in all the stuff we have yet to get sorted since we moved last year (still building work and storage spaces-we're old and slow!).
I've seen pics of draw knives and hubby has promised to make me one (he's awesome with making tools and so on) but, like everything else, it will have to wait 'til he gets to it.
Thanks!

[mioyshi]

I am smiling at "20" hrs, as I learned a long time ago, bark peeling is a slow process. I agree, not to finish the wood, until you get what you want , carved into the stick. Sometimes, I use the BARK, AS the carving. I will add a pic for you to view. Also, when you begin to peel that bark, put on a cd, native flutes, jj kent is good, then just allow spirit to let your mind wonder off, and before you know it, the stick will be naked, and a pile of bark will rest at your feet.
Have a great day...

[kookiemomster48]

In rereading my original post I realize how far I've come in a relatively short time.
Peeling a really long staff/limb now takes less than half the time, I don't leave scars that need to be sanded out, I don't hurt my hands (carpal tunnel and a tendency to tendonitis) like I did and I get more projects done.
I'd LOVE to listen to the CD's you're talking about but I have to work in near silence since I have hyperacusis (sensitive hearing). My music listening is limited and they flute tones can be agonizing. I miss them. And Enya too!!!
Now I peel with three tools. Two different weight knives (just old kitchen knives sharpened to a fair-the-well) and a coping saw for little limbs I want removed or shortened-I use some of them to carve animal or people faces...
Oh, and a vise with a heavy leather pad to protect the limbs.
Clamp her down, peel everything that will come off with the heavier of the knives at a 25 to 30 degree angle in the direction of the peel then take off inner bark with a scraping motion turning the angle of the knife the other way. The lighter knife I use for getting into curves and odd shapes in the wood.
New tools coming next month. I've an eight foot cedar log that I'm preparing for a "totem" pole for my front yard. MY kind of totems. LOL I've already pre-shaped crossing serpent heads out of interesting crossed branch stubs... We'll see what comes out. Its still "talking" to me.
Oh, I peel dry! My best carving friend peels wet. Whatever rings your chimes!
Casey

[kookiemomster48]

I cannot BELIEVE that I missed the NAMELESS response! I'm gonna try those just for fun. Have taught myself to make spirals with rasps, files and sanding (mixing jewelry making and carving with spiral cut beads!) since I don't have the wrist strength/control to use a knife on them

[AlArchie]

There is a conundrum (is that the right word?) when it comers to peeling and drying sticks.

Sticks harvested in the spring will peel quite easily when the new cambrium layer is in full growth, but the early sap is when the wood has the highest moisture content....long drying periods.

Sticks harvested in late fall or winter after the sap has gone down, or in the case of coniferous trees, the growth has slowed, will dry in short order, but the bark will be much harder to remove.

In either case it's almost always easier to remove the bark immediately after cutting. On some species, sticks harvested in the spring and left to dry with the bark on, may actually "shed" the bark as the inner wood shrinks away from it.

Al

[kookiemomster48]

Oh, how I love you guys. I live to learn and you teach so well!
With my allergies I mostly have to work with dried wood but I'm gonna try some newly cut on vacation this year. Will also be trying new woods as I'm mostly working with what I have on my own land now and that's cedar, cedar, cedar and ash. He won't let me cut any hickory. LOL Oh, and the oak that's here is icky. Small twigs are working well for making bead, however.
Casey