[Ashbys]

Helps a lot .

Should be Black to black Blue to white and orange to ground .

If I was going to wire it with the information from that , I would use a grounded plug , and wiretie the black to the black line , then wiretie the blue to the white line and then wire tie the orange to the green ground line. The wrap a piece of electrial tape arounf the wire and the wire tie to add a little extra protection to keep them from comming apart. Then If I had a tester I would do a ground check from the motor to the ground line. Then test it by pluging it in to a 10 amp fused line or a 10 amp breaker line .
According to the information you just gave , it should be a 110 Volt motor running on a 60 hertz ac line in single phase format with a model kh 47 motor frame , operating at a normal amp load of 4.6 . at an open non load rotation of 1750 rpm. If it were to be wired incorrectly it should blow the fuse quickly .

But that is if I were doing it .

But I can't tell you to do it .

Ash

[whitecree]

Thanks, that helps. I figured black to black, but the blue & orange threw me. I'll try this later today/tomorrow.





- Somewhat later -

Wired it up, black-black, blue-green, orange-light green. Plug it in, and all it does is hum.

Rats!

[Claude]

Can't help you with the wiring, folks, but please don't throw the motors into the trash. Put them in the recycle instead. There is a pretty fair amount of copper and iron in a motor that can be recycled...

Claude

[Mark Gargac]

Does that motor have a capacitor piggy Backed on it somewhere. This more than likely would be a run capacitor with two wires coming from it and could be hiden under a cover sticking off the motor somewhere. These capcitors aid in the motors running efficiency, and would be given the information you have given on the motor a 7.5 uf 370 VAC. They cost about $7.00. If you feel it is worth it I would give this a try. You can also take this capacitor, if in fact the motor has one, and have it tested at a electrical supply house, most cases for no charge. Although you could have a start capcitor on this motor, plastic casing the run capacitor wil have a metal casing either way just because the motor hums that dos'nt mean the motors failed. But if the motor has failed , Cluade offered some excellent advise.

[Ashbys]

You have a replacement plug with 2 green wires ?
I don't think I have ever seen that before. But your in Canada and I am in the states, in the states green is a ground line.

But that said, I still think you should take it to an electric shop and have the motor tested. Think about reasons dryers are replaced, failed motors are a big reason.

Ash

[whitecree]

Yeah, weird, isn't it? Light green and dark green. I got the wire from an old outdoor extension cord.

I think I will end up taking it in to an electrical sort of place. I don't see anywhere on here that could be a capacitor housing, unless it is internal?

The dryer was considered 'dead' because of the heating element and thermostat, not because the motor was shot.

[arbarnhart]

I have picked up used motors cheap and wired them. When I worked on them, I used a power bar plugged into a GFI socket. I would wire it, plug it in to the turned off power bar and then turn it on using a piece of non conductive plastic pipe to throw the switch. I was following diagrams and usually everything was fine, but when it wasn't I never did any damage to myself, house wiring or the motors.

[whitecree]

Well, I wish my luck ran that smoothly. Next up, I'll try the washing machine motor. As soon as I can get that clutch thingy off the shaft...

[Ashbys]

White ,
Are you sure the dark green isn't the ground wire?

[DICK "chipncut" CAIN]

Most of them motors have a centrifical starting switch, inside the end cover. sometime the points get dirty or clogged up with dust. You have to take the end bearing cover off to check it out. That's probably why it hums.While your at it oil the wicks for the bearings.
Dick