[HadACall55]

Jillsy , Hi

I just got a Master wood burner with two pens an ajustble heat sittings . Haven't had time to use it much but got tired of buying thoughts little 20.00 pleaces of junk .

Bob

[squbrigg]

Jillsy, there are a whole realm of things you can do with woodburning pens. Write, shade, enhanse, create texture, draw, fill in, feather, fur, plank, bark, and who knows what else. Only limit is your immignation. I found mine to be a great investment, two pen Razortip. Don't go and buy a bunch of pens to start, just a small skew and a small curved spear shader. You'll never regret it. But be careful, burning can become addictive.

Bob

[Thomp]

jillsy,

i find detailing carvings you dont have to burn to a dark char, to detail

test the nib on scrap of the same wood and adjust your heat knob along with the speed of the pen you can use it where it is only it makes a crease in the wood or just a light scorch mark,

burning over paint could become a sicking result, to your health,
i wouldn't...

get a personal desk fan, place it close proximity of your wood burning area, position the fan where it blows away from you not across the work area, the idea is to pull the smoke away from your eyes and lungs,
there's not much im allergic to in this world but a couple stiff puffs of that smoke will keep me coughing for days with blood shot eyes..
be careful kiddo...

[Pyrographer]

Hi Jillsy,
Ok, I'm not a carver but I am a pyrographer so my perspective is a bit different.

The tips I can give you are relevant to any type of burning. First, never burn over paint, stain, etc. Burning should only be done on bare wood for several reasons...most important is that it's not safe!

The second tip I can give you is that you don't need a lot of tips to do anything. When I get a new burner asking for recommendations for what tips to get I usually say you need only 3 to do just about anything: the HD5MP, the bent spear shader which is "my pen", either the 9S, 99.015 or the new one I had Razertip make for me 9P. NOt even available yet but on it's way and #13 (F14M, HD14SM or my new one #14D).

With those you can do just about anything. I use the HD5MP for 99% of my work. You can shade, do lines of varying thickness by using the side, calligraphy, etc.

With the #9 or 99 you can do pointilism, writing, lines, etc.

the #14's are wonderful for nice clean, crisp lines, shading, hatching, cross-hatching, etc.

Some of the new pens that Razertip has worked with me to make are brand new and not even available yet but we should have them by next week. Some are still currently exclusive to me but if they are as popular as the HD5MP and the F99 ball tips they will soon become part of their regular line up. I don't have them in stock yet, only the prototypes but they should be in next week and I'm sooooo excited.

New:
F9P - we took the F9S and made it a bit smaller, rounded the tip so it's pointed and not sharp so it will glide over the wood better for writing.

#14D (HD or F) - this is the #14 modified to be a bit smaller with a blunt heel which makes it more versatile and easier to maneuver for curved lines. I already have these in stock.

#99 - new tiny sizes .08 & 1.1 mm's....these babies are tiny...so tiny I couldn't get a good photo of the prototype. You are going to be able to do cursive writing pointilism, fine lines and like the other ball tips will glide over the wood. These are going to be like using a fine tipped pen.

Of course all of these can be used in carving as well as flat burning.

I always say that the use of each pen is only limited by your imagination.

Nedra

[Pyrographer]

The new pens have arrived!!!!

I even managed to get half way decent photos of them. There are still some tips due in that will be new for us but the ones they made special for me F9P and the micro ball tips are now on the site with pictures.

Nedra

[jillsy]

Thanks all for your advice and details,

I tried it and so far, found it to be really hard! May be because the tip was too big for what I needed. (I was just practicing on a little snowman). A big problem I had was the tip either went in too deep, or not deep enough. Then, it'd slip and make a burn where I didn't want it. I'll definitely be needing lots of practice (and I'm guessing smaller points). I was trying to just make lines for a quilt, so it shouldn't have been as difficult as it was.

Jillsy

[Pyrographer]

No, you absolutely should NOT burn on anything that has been painted, stained, finished, etc. Burn on bare, untreated wood only.

Also, typically your only burn areas you do not intend to add color because the color does not adhere to the burned areas.

Nedra

[santagibbs]

Sometimes stitch marks are easier on a quilt..If you use a sharp point, alll you have to do is touch it to the wood . It helps to draw your stitching on the wood first.. It won't matter if you don't hit the pencil marks exactly where you draw them as some of mine are off the mark anyway, so when I start burning I just straighten the line as I go. but marking just gives you help in making the line of stitching. Set your pen where the stitching won't burn very much by trying it on another piece of wood first.. Use a very sharp pointed pen. I have a celing fan over my burner that blows the smoke down and away from my face but if I have to burn a lot , then I use a mask .. I love my detailer but now I am wondering if they have some ball tip burners as I sure would love to have some..Does anyone know? Charlotte

[Pyrographer]

Originally Posted by santagibbs

Sometimes stitch marks are easier on a quilt..If you use a sharp point, alll you have to do is touch it to the wood . It helps to draw your stitching on the wood first.. It won't matter if you don't hit the pencil marks exactly where you draw them as some of mine are off the mark anyway, so when I start burning I just straighten the line as I go. but marking just gives you help in making the line of stitching. Set your pen where the stitching won't burn very much by trying it on another piece of wood first.. Use a very sharp pointed pen. I have a celing fan over my burner that blows the smoke down and away from my face but if I have to burn a lot , then I use a mask .. I love my detailer but now I am wondering if they have some ball tip burners as I sure would love to have some..Does anyone know? Charlotte

Hi Charlotte,
As a matter of fact I just had Razertip design two of the smallest ball tips for me and I'm sure that one day they will be part of their regular line. The newest additition are .8 mm and 1.1 mm. YOu can see them on my website. They are on the Razertip specialty pen page. There are 8 sizes ranging from .8mm to 5.5mm.

Here's a link to the page: http://NedrasPyrography.com/Razertip_Specialty_Pens.htm

All of the RAzertip pens will work with your burner if you get a replacement cord (on the Razertip main page) or an adaptor. I recommend the cord rather than the adaptor.

Some suggestions about the smoke from the burner. I usually recommend burning at an angle so that the heat and smoke rise away from you. Also, rather than using a ceiling fan blowing down on you which will actually cool the pens, try using a small desk fan with it blowing away from you. It will keep the pens from cooling and get the smoke away from you.

Nedra

[santagibbs]

Thank's Nedra for the information on Razor Tip burner. Oh it would be just great if I could get the tips for my Colwood.. I am not sure what you mean by a new cord as Curtis use to take care of all those things. But I sure would love to buy some of the ball tips if they would fit my coldwood.. Makes me want to get a Razor Tip.. grin
You have a great web site and Picture Trail . I really enjoyed your picture of Mel Gibson. it looks just like him and John Wayne.. You do very nice work. The Indian carving is very nice work also . Thanks for the information ..Charlotte