Acorn WIP

[Irish]

Step 10: Sorry, this photo came out fussy so I am using the scan instead.

I have moved my mapping into the acorn cap and branch. And I have changed my texture stroke to fine lines. Fine line texturing can be used in several ways.

If you move the tool tip into the burn area with a flowing stroke you line comes out even in value on both ends of the stroke. This is great when you want very even color in a shaded area.

If you drop your pen to the wood then pull the line you get a wonderful little dark spot at the beginning of the line. This is great when you want the line graduated with the dark spot creating the dark area of the tonal change. Example. When we go to shade the acorn where it tucks under the cap I will want a little extra darkness just at the tuck point. That's where I will use the drop then pull line texture.

For what I am doing now, mapping, I am pulling through the line texture to keep everything even in value. The acorn cap is shaded along the outer edges with the line texture moving with the cap scales in a vertical direction. The branch is mapped along the outer edges and the lines curve with the angles of the branch.

Susan Editing ... On the photo that was suppose to read Grip not grib, sorry.

[Irish]

Step 11: Let's move onto our baby mouse ... I am still using the writing tip, writing grip and the temp setting of 4.

The texture stroke here is a very tight little circle stroke. This is a favorite of mine when I want very, very even coloring. My mouse will have fur, of course! Each pyrographer approaches animal fur in their own unique manner.

For me, I know that my mouse has shape and form and that the fur lies on top of that shape. So to create the shape shadows I do a shadow burning first. In essence I shadow the skin, create the shape and then later add the fur lines.

Scan-Step11.jpg: Here's where I am so far. Back in a bit after I do a little more burning and after Mike has a chance to get to the computer this morning and after you have a chance to get caught up ...

(Edited Oct. 2, 2007 - If you are following the step-by-step for printing or photos the next posting for the WIP is on page 5, post #43. I hope you come back and read all the great info in between these steps.)

Susan

[Irish]

IN MY OPINION:

I have worked for about an hour and a half on this burning. That is probably longer then these steps will take you but I am taking photos as I work.

So far the Colwood Detailer is giving me extremely even tonal value throughout each area. When I started an area with a little coffee with cream coloring that coloring remained through the entire burn. I did not once get pale spots because the tip was cooling down nor hot spots from heating up. So I am very pleased with the evenness of the heat.

I have not noticed any heat lose because the tool 'hit' the wood. I will keep an eye on this as we get to higher temps.

The tool tip is flowing smoothly, I never once 'hung up' on the grain or because I was working against the grain.

The handle and cork grip feel very comfortable and I have not had a 'hot handle'. Now, I have only been working at the temp setting of 4 so we will see how the handle and grip do at higher temps in a while.

My hand is not cramped or tired, I am ready to go play some more. And I really like the feel of the cork, it's easy on the fingers and easy to roll when I am turning my pen through a curve.

The heavy cord to the pen has been quite flexible. I am sort of surprised here as I thought it might be a problem as heavy as it is ... not!

Susan

[Hiloboy]

Irish, can the optima pens work with the colwood detailer?and mahalos for the great review.

[Kenny_S]

Would have been nice to have seen a review of a new Razortip burner you use.
I would hate to see a comparison of an older Razortip to a new Colwood.

Just my opinion.

However, I do want to thank Susan for taking the time to review the Colwood and showing us a tutorial of how she burns. I appreciate it.

[Irish]

Hey Hiloboy, I don't know the answer to that so I'm going to slip out of here and see if I can find out.

Hey Kenny, I agree! My RazorTip is about two years old. Now quite honestly and in my opinion although I would love to twist my beloved hubby Michael's arm for the newest model ... I don't think he will go for it. With only two years of use and one book worth of use I don't think he would ever believe that it needs to be replaced. Deep Sigh!

Maybe someone else on the message board who does have a brand new model could follow suit, do a review and post a WIP with it.

Susan

[Irish]

I am not going to be able to get close to the computer for photo editing today. So, I will just post these reference scans. These are from our yard and you should have seen the struggle to wrench them out of that squirrel's hands.

Susan

[Woodartist]

Very nice testing Susan..as well as some good pyro tips Not sure what you mean by

The tips of all four of my pens are polished tips

??

Other than that question, your writing was easy to follow and understand....

[Irish]

Hey Bill,

Someone on the other thread had 'said' that Colwood pens dragged because they were not polished ??? So, since that comment was out there on the message board I thought I would note that the tips that I recieved have a wonderful bright finish/polish to them.

I do think that a polished tip means a slick, easy moving tip. When I clean my tips I rub them over a strop with red oxide or aluminum oxide powder on it. Just as a strop and rouge puts a bright polish on a carving tool making it cut cleaner I would think that the same bright polish on a burning tip will help it move more cleanly across the wood.

Susan

[Woodartist]

OK Susan, I was thinking that tips could be sold as "not polished," and never heard of that. My Optima came all shined up also and I keep them clean using Tripoli and Rouge and stroping on leather. Haven't tried the aluminum oxide yet. I found keeping them clean and shiny kept the heat transfer constant.....so I didn't have to elevate the temperature while burning.

Inquiring minds just want to know
Thanks..