[RussL.]

Last winter my (then ) ten year-old son and I started "whittling" for fun.

This winter we are moving to, let's say, a higher level of whittling...we're using basswood blocks as well as local twigs and tree branches.

My question is what do you use as a basic wood finish on a basswood carvings ("whittlings"?) to preserve the wood and protect it from all the handling by admiring family members?

Nothing fancy or tinted. A wax?

Thank you in advance,

RussL.

[Donna_T]

RussL,
Yes, you can wax a finished carving with something like Minwax or Briwax and it will protect your carving from hand oils and dirt. You can also spritz a finished carving with a light coat of matt or satin finish lacquer like Krylon. Some like to use a tinted BLO, boiled linseed oil with a dab of oil paint in it to seal and age a carving....but that is a process that some really like and others really don't like...besides the rags used in the process are flamable if not treated correctly.

For much of what I carve, I just use the convenient spray method. But I also like to use a piece of wadded up brown paper bag to burnish my carving before and after the spray--it give the carving a luster and smooths the finish. Just try one finish and then another and see which one makes your carvings look good.

DOnna T

[squbrigg]

A couple of layers of oil (Danish Oil) wipe dry after each, let set 24 hrs, then some floor paste wax, let day then buff to a shine. Safe and easy to do, makes a nice soft finish for handling.

Bob

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I prefer "Deft" lacquer, and sometimes have been known to paint with MinWax "Pre Stain Sealer" before putting the acrylic paint on and then sealing with the lacquer....the prestain sealer is clear but gives the wood a nice buttery feel and assists in the application of the acrylic. imho

[AlArchie]

I like the Cabot's sanding sealer. Brushes will need to be cleaned with paint thinner, but the sealer dries quickly, and can unsually be handled in a couple hours. It will raise the grain very slightly (it'd supposed to do that) so you can sand it after the sealer is dry and have a nice smooth surface that is perfectly clear.. Either leave it alone, or put on a clear finish of any kind. If you want to finish with lacquer, let the sanding sealer dry for a day or so.

Or do what Dave suggested and use the spray Deft lacquer. It acts just like a sanding sealer, can be recoated and it's also clear.

Al

[Claude]

If you want a finish that's easy and "relatively" safe around small children, when you finish carving, wash with soap, water, and an old toothbrush to get the hand oils and dirt off the carving. Let dry overnight, then rub with a wadded up brown paper bag, then put on a coat of CeramCoat satin water-based varnish, thinned half-and-half with water. Let that dry 24 hours, rub with the wadded up brown paper bag again, and then apply some ordinary old paste floor wax. After the wax has dried for a few hours, buff with the wadded up brown paper bag again, and you're all done. If you can't find the paste floor wax, clear shoe polish works as well.

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Oh No! Here we go again.....

Being Christmas, I will not make any negative comments about BLO even though I hate the stuff and would never, ever consider putting it on one of my carvings. So I'll just say that Polyurethane Satin finish is my choice for a finish. It looks great, you can wash off any dirt that will eventually appear, and it should last forever.

[RussL.]

Thank you all for your responses. They each seem very helpful.
I actually already have a spray can of Krylon fixative that I use for some fly tying applications (any crossover carvers who are fly tyers, too?), so I'll probably try that first.

Merry Christmas and a happy, healthy New Year to you all.

RussL.