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  #11  
Old 12-31-2008, 01:31 AM
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Hello and welcome, Smitty. It's nice to have you finally here and posting.
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2008, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schizoidlogger View Post
Like Smitty I've been around for a bit. I live on Northern Vancouver Island and have been carving all of my life. Lately I've been experimenting with laminating red cedar burl wood and been sculpting mostly near life sized eagles. I'm having a bear of a time gluing irreglular shapes with compound curves and have used pegs or biscuits to keep them in place. Problem is, when I do the final sanding/shaping often these fasteners are revealed = filling and flaws. I was wondering if anyone has tried using hot glue in combination with regular carpenter's glue to hold it in place (a dab or two at the ends) to work as a "clamp" to hold it in place until the stronger glue sets up. Or failing that what other suggestions are out there, ie: surgical tubing ain't bad but it's limited too.
Hello and welcome, Schizoidlogger. It's nice to have you here. I don't know if a strap clamp will work.
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2008, 03:12 AM
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First Welcome to Smitty as this is his post! Just to answer & a suggestion to the schizoidlogger! I have joined a few half logs etc, for prjects that I couldnt get a large enough diameter or piece for & what I have had great luck with is first the faces must be very flat. I imagine if you are from Northern Vancouver Island you have a nice big saw with a bar that can handle the size of wood in one foul swoop to achieve an almost perfect flat surface? If you can achieve a nice flat joint I then recommend using "Industrial Formulators G2" epoxy adhesive & then buy yourself a number of 3" (or appropriate sizes) ratchet straps. Using these straps you could literally squeez the juice out of the wood & will work on almost any shape, size or form you want to glue up. To apply pressure more in specific places you can add wedges or blocks of wood under the strap in these locations. The Polyurethane glues they now sell by Elmers or Gorilla are great also & basically as strong as the epoxies but unless you have a real tight joint they show a slight light colour but have better gap filling capability & if you take the time to mix the glue into a paste using the Cedar sawdust (finer the better) & apply liberally to the joining halves before & as it starts to set pack the glue down for about an hour or until it finishes its reaction & the result is strong & not near as noticeable as dowels or biscuits! Another question, do you ever come down to the Campbell River Competition as I attend this every year? Hope this helps you out & any questions don't hesitate?
Thanks, Robbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schizoidlogger View Post
Like Smitty I've been around for a bit. I live on Northern Vancouver Island and have been carving all of my life. Lately I've been experimenting with laminating red cedar burl wood and been sculpting mostly near life sized eagles. I'm having a bear of a time gluing irreglular shapes with compound curves and have used pegs or biscuits to keep them in place. Problem is, when I do the final sanding/shaping often these fasteners are revealed = filling and flaws. I was wondering if anyone has tried using hot glue in combination with regular carpenter's glue to hold it in place (a dab or two at the ends) to work as a "clamp" to hold it in place until the stronger glue sets up. Or failing that what other suggestions are out there, ie: surgical tubing ain't bad but it's limited too.
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2008, 02:32 PM
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Location: Northern Vancouver Island Canada
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Rwenzoski

Thanks for the tips. I can tell that you've dealt with the same kinds of problems as me. My workshop is unheated so during the winter am limited to what types of glue will set up properly. Have used strap clamps but never thought of using "twist ties" before (could carve a notch so they grip on a curved surface for even pressure).

BTW, you likely already know but 5 min. epoxy will set up even in cold weather. I have used the fine sawdust in epoxy for filler (as you suggest) and in a pinch have even used fine coffee grounds.

In the way of chain saws I have an old Husky 2100 with a 36 inch bar, a cheap 14 inch gas and a small 12 inch (with quarter carving tip) Stihl for fine work. I recently drilled a hole in the bar about 6 inches from the tip of this saw and mounted the handle from an angle grinder on it - gives great control for detail work (just don't wear long sleeves - ha!). Have a whole mess of power and hand tools for detail work. Have sold some work in galleries but I ain't rich yet. (ha!)

Campbell River is about two hours south of me but I have never gone into a chainsaw carving contest. I like to take my time and am very fussy about flow and proportion - likely couldn't deal with the time constraints.
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2008, 02:39 PM
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Ron T

Thanks for the welcome. I like your work with canes. It's amazing how attached (literally and figuratively) many people become to them. I did one for a cancer victim once and was told that she died holding it. Makes something special to pass on to those remaining and that my work gave her a little comfort.
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  #16  
Old 12-31-2008, 02:52 PM
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Mel

Thanks for the welcome. Nice work. Have you done any research done on hobo art done with a jack knife during the depression. A lot of stuff out of one piece of wood. Some guys made long chains out of one plank of wood - I guess they had a lot of time on their hands.

What is the best way of posting some photos of my work. I'm not exactly a genius when it comes to computers (or anything else ha!)

Last edited by schizoidlogger; 12-31-2008 at 02:57 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-31-2008, 02:56 PM
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The bugleboy

Thanks for the tip. Neither have I, that's why I was wondering. I'm going to try the hot glue thing and see if it works and will let everyone know.

Last edited by schizoidlogger; 12-31-2008 at 02:58 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2008, 05:02 PM
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Hi SL! Using 5 minute epoxy you have to be very carefull as any glue that dries almost instantly has no tensile strength & one impact or stresses caused by wood expanding & contracting (as it is never really dead) will cause the 5 minute epoxy to fail. I would recommend the G1 Cold Cure for your applications! The "ratchet straps" I am referring too will literally crush the wood they have so much strength. Just an example of strength
khmrgriz117.jpg
I have used them many times as clamps also but will have to search for pics of this.
Thanks, Robbin
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2008, 09:43 PM
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Welcome to the site Schiziodlogger , good to have you here
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