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Carving Wood & Materials | |||
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#1
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I have severral pieces of basswood that I have picked up at a local store. My question is when I look at other peoples carvings on the site their wood seems to look more "wax like" and yellower than mine. Am I just seeing things or am i using bad or different wood.
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#2
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Is there such a thing as bad wood? Just kidding, I have seen yellow and white basswood. It depends on age and location grown. what for you mean by waxy? Smooth? Glossy? If the tools as sharp it make the wood look polished. |
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#3
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Welcome to the forum! One possible reason for the color is the type of light, and how much of it, available when the photo was taken. Dim light will often make a photo yellower. OTH, bright fluorescent lighting will often make it look white or even blue-white. If you are buying your wood at craft stores, you're likely paying very high prices for low quality wood. Even buying the wood from Woodcraft or Rockler stores can result in harder-to-carve basswood. Personally, I buy mine from Heinecke Wood Products Top quality wood, and shipping is fast. I usually buy the 3 in by 6 in by 12 in sizes, as my bandsaw can only cut wood that is 3.5 inches thick or less, and then I can rip these down to 2 x 2 or 1.4 by 1.5 or whatever I need. Claude |
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#4
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Thanks. I will check out the site. I remember reading or hearing about their wood, but did not have anybody recommend them first hand. Now sharpening is a whole other animal. I strop,strop,and,strop again, but I have no idea if I am getting what I need. I haveatched video after video, and read every article but what I think is sharp may not be. |
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#5
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I agree with Rich, the wood takes on a shinier more waxy look as you carve it. Yes knowing sharp can be elusive until you carve a lot. If you do not have any 'white line' and the tool does not tear you probably have a good edge. The other variable is bevel angle. New, they are usually too steep. It will require at least a fine and xtra fine stone to shallow out the bevel, but carve awhile first. |
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#6
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Here are some starting points: Wood carving knives: total included bevel angle 12 degrees, no more than 15 degrees Wood carving gouges: 20 degrees (Porsche 301 kitchen knives, too) Carpenter's plane blades, skews and chisels: 30 degrees. Knot-buster chisels 40 degrees. Wood-turning lathe tools are all over: some as shallow as 30 degrees, one big Sorbey gouge that I repaired was 60 degrees. You will learn that these angles are recommended by Leonard Lee in his "Practical Guide to Sharpening." After maybe 10 years, I have no reason to suggest otherwise. General Mfg makes a swing arm protractor meant to measure tip angles on drill bits. Works like a dream for any bevel edge angles. |
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#7
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Be sure you don't roll the sharpened edge when you strop! When you lift the blade off the strop, lift the sharpened edge last. That will keep you from the tendency to "roll" the edge..
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#8
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Buying wood from local craft stores is generally not a good idea. It is expensive and usually not of high quality. There is also a big difference between Northern grown and Southern grown basswood. Don't buy it unless you can be sure it is Northern basswood.
__________________ Bob My etsy shop: RWK Woodcarving http://www.rwkwoodcarving.etsy.com My email: rwkoz51@gmail.com |
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