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#1
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After using Basswood for the most part, I cut some blanks from Walnut. Made sure my knife was well sharpened and honed. Yikes! what's the secret to knife carving smaller objects from walnut? By small I mean 2 to three inches in height. Tom H |
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#2
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Tom, I think the secret is a good grip. It sure is different than bass. Tom |
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#3
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Lots of small cuts with a thin blade, has been my experience.
__________________ Randy May your neighbors respect you, Trouble neglect you, The angels protect you, And heaven accept you. |
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#4
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Walnut is a much harder wood than basswood. When it comes to carving hardwood you need a steeper bevel on your knife blade. You should get another knife that has a steep bevel or regrind your current one to a sharper bevel.
__________________ Bob My etsy shop: RWK Woodcarving http://www.rwkwoodcarving.etsy.com My email: rwkoz51@gmail.com |
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#5
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I wonder if the length of the knife edge isn't a part of the puzzle also. I have some mahogany blocks which are whispering: "Carve me! Carve me!" Cutting into mahogany, I might be pushing 1/4" to 1/2" of knife blade, no matter how shallow I try to make the cuts. Can't be much different from using a carpenter's firmer chisel. I agree that the knife tip could gnaw out bits at a time. If I use a 3F/8 or a 8/7 gouge, maybe the middle 1/8" of the edge cuts the wood. The force I need to use to make the cut is really different. Also I agree that there has to be enough steel behind the edge to support the bevel edge. Bob K.: what would you suggest for an improved bevel angle on a knife? 20 degrees? I have a few knives, they are all about 12 degrees. My Pfeil; tools are all 20 degrees. A couple of carpenter's chisels are 30 degrees and my "knot-busters" are 40 degrees. |
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#6
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Tom: My experience has been the same as Randy's: small cuts, sharp knife. Most of the walnut I've done has been with gouges, but I have done some of the detail with my Flexcut detail knife. One other help is to make sure your knife is making a slicing cut, not just pushing straight into the wood. Claude |
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#7
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Hi Tom, I agree with Randy and Claude. When I was first introduced a carving, it was doing wood spirits on hardwood sticks. Later, I moved over to fruit woods and boxwood, all very hard woods. I learned to keep my knife sharp and to take very small cuts.
__________________ Just do the best you can everyday. http://stickcarving.webs.com/ My Gallery photos. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...0/ppuser/11336 |
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#8
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A Dremel...... Like my old martial arts Sensei used to tell me.... fight smarter!
__________________ "I never met a carver that I didn't like... a knife that I didn't want... a chisel or gouge that I didn't need... or a piece of wood that I didn't have to have!" |
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#9
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I've done a little walnut, it requires shavings, no chunks like I can in bass. I also have a knife with a secondary bevel just for hardwood- its one of my standard knives that start with a 19degree bevel, and I put an arbitrary second bevel on- prolly near to 25 degrees. (note standard hardwood plane and chisel irons run around 30 degrees)
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#10
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Great ideas and help guys. I need to dig through my tool and see if I have a knife blade with the secondary bevel. I did try something else. I poured some rubbing alcohol into a glass and dropped the piece of Walnut in for one hour. It helped. Thanks again.... Tom H |
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