Hey Admin, A Request

[AlArchie]

Bob, I was just answering a post on checking of pieces carved from logs, and thought that here is a topic that could be researched by your staff.

Dave Dunlap mentioned sealing the ends with wax or other sealers to stop checking. This topic has been discussed MANY times, here, and is still a good topic, as there is always someone new asking the question.

I have found that sealing the ends of smaller sticks (up to 3" or so) has been sucessfull, but have had absolutely no luck in stopping the cracking on larger pieces by thoroughly sealing the ends. Seems like eventually the splitting just happens.

There has also been discussion of the effectiveness of the PEG and Pentacryl treatments.

Perhaps your staff could test different sealing methods on increasingly large diameter samples of several of the favorite carving wood logs, to see just where the size does make a difference. A lot of us have sucessfully sealed the ends of sticks used for canes. How large can the sealing work?

Also a good test of the PEG type treatments would be a good topic for an article.

Granted these would take some time, but it could provide a great resource for answering this type of question.

Al

[wade clark]

I've had great success, I feel, with Anchorseal end grain sealer on large pieces (4 ft. hollow live oak log, 6 ft. solid live oak logs). The key, I believe, is keeping a very close eye on it ( daily or as often as humanly possible) with a magnifying glass - my eye can't detect the beginning of a crack soon enough - and as soon as you see the slightest crack add another coat of Anchorseal...and another...and another as needed. It works on live oak, from my experience, and I'll bet live oak is as prone to checking and splitting as any wood.
I think that each of us will deal with wood in a different way, due to circumstance, supply and available time. Therefore a true formula will be skewed by the human factor. I also think most woods can be "cured" successfully by several methods, including a regular soaking with a garden hose, but the real key is personal attention and quick action...Grandma said, "A stitch in time saves nine". I'll bet there are a dozen good ways to protect a piece of wood from checking, some have size limits for most of us (freezing, for instance on a 3'x7' carving). But they ALL require constant vigilance to succeed!
A lot of carvers who carve large green wood, or just dry it for carving, split it down one side to relieve stress. Many won't carve the heart because of checking. I'd just say that if you can't commit or find time to watch it very closely and deal with it quickly and regularly, buy dry wood.
I like your idea, Al, about a thorough study on the subject, but I don't think there is a formula that will work without personal vigilance.
Wade

[Mryooper]

I was told by a kiln operator there are alot of way to stop the checking and cracking. From anchorseal to S shaped metal that is hammered on the ends.

[AlArchie]

For Mr. Yooper.....I'm really getting curious if there really is a way to stop checking. Would you see if your kiln operator contact has cured full logs, what length and diameter, or if only dimensioned stock, and what percentage checking (lengthwise)does he accept.

And if not full length logs, has he had any success with shorter lengths. How long has he had to keep the sealer on before using the wood for carving (or market). Bark on or bark off?

Part of my reason for asking is that I have carved some kiln dried white pine that was 6"x12" x 14 feet long. Seasoned well over 10 years, and kept in a covered area of the lumber yard. When I carved it, it STILL cracked. That may have been due to relieving internal stresses and not to actual further shrinkage, though. From the size of these beams, I'd guess that they were milled from 30"+ diameter logs.

Anyway, I'd very much like to see some documented successes, and learn of any positive methods of curing large diameter wood that has not been milled to dimensional sizes.

Wade.thanks for your personal input on the "constant vigilance" factor.....that may in and of itself be the answer.

Al

[Mryooper]

End grain dryingPaint ends, e.g. with bituminous paint Found this on a site. I will check with the kiln operator today. Pat

[Mryooper]

Originally Posted by Mryooper

End grain dryingPaint ends, e.g. with bituminous paint Found this on a site. I will check with the kiln operator today. Pat

p.s I was also told by the sawmill owner youneed atleast a 1/4 " of wax on the end of your logs to help with the ends not cracking.
http://www.woodweb.com/KnowledgeBase...Operation.html