wood too dry

buckbeans · #1 06-30-2006, 12:23 PM

I live in the southwest where the humidity is very low.
Any recommendations for rejuvenating bare wood?

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #2 06-30-2006, 02:32 PM

I live in NW AZ and just mist a little water on the wood. Most of the time, I use it like it is and if having a problem, mist some rubbing alcohol on it.

AlArchie · #3 06-30-2006, 06:27 PM

If it's carving wood of which you speak (write), Dave's advice is probably as good as any.

If you're meaning wood as in furniture or construction, you might try a mix of 50% turpentine and 50% linseed or other finishing oil. I've used this to rejuvenate an old chest that had a very dry and cracked finish. It came out looking really nice.

Al

buckbeans · #4 07-01-2006, 02:24 PM

what other finishing oils do you recommend?

AlArchie · #5 07-01-2006, 03:42 PM

I've only used linseed oil, but would think that tung oil, walnut oil would work just as well. Mixing with turps helps them penetrate the wood a little better.

Formby's makes some products just for rejuvenating wood. Probably a couple dozen other manufactures, too. I believe you can find Formby's at Home Depot or Menards, and Rockler carries it.

Al

Donna_T · #6 07-02-2006, 11:53 PM

Hello Buckbeans,
Two things I've tried on carvings that I'm having trouble carving because the wood is hard or/and dry:

I keep a little spraybottle filled with half rubbing alcohol and half water and anytime I've had trouble carving, especially crossgrain, and it gets tough, I spray it with this mixture--let it soak in for a few minutes and carve away. I've only used it on basswood but it works.

The other thing I've tried is to just dip the whole caving in a bucket of water...and leave it in for anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 hour. This works super and doesn't seen to affect the wood negatively. Pine is especially good with this emersion technique.

Try either or both.See which works for you.

Donna T

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #7 07-03-2006, 11:04 AM

You haven't said if this is raw wood or finished furniture?

dutchmanmk3 · #8 07-04-2006, 04:19 AM

I live in Colorado and still have an active kiln in my shop, and mill. I tend to prefer Tung oil finishes over BLO or RLO due to its smaller molecular structure. It Soaks in more quickly, Penetrates deeper and Cures harder.

My personal preference is for most any of the Waterlox products, but I tend to use the sealer finish most often, and do the finish coats in the most appropriate luster. These are technically a tung oil varnish, but are infinitely superior to pure tung oil. I still use BLO for drawing out figure in light toned woods like Maple, and Butternut, but tend to finish with at least 1 coat of tung oil.

Properly applied, a 400/800 Waterlox finish easily rivals a sprayed machine polished 10,000 Dupont Chromaclear finish at a small fraction of the cost, and the softer finish is less susceptible to impact injuries, and can be touched up readily. HTH, Marc

squbrigg · #9 07-04-2006, 07:20 AM

Bring your wood East for a week! Rains hasn't stopped for weeks! That ought to remoisten your wood. Then you can use it to help us build an ark!!! I think the poor folks in PA might be able to use it!

Bob

whitecree · #10 07-05-2006, 11:05 AM

What? Is it still pouring down out that way? Never mind the ark, you guys need a submarine!

If your wood is bare and raw - meaning uncarved - and you have time and patience, use a a spray bottle to mist water all over, then wrap in a plastic bag and leave somewhere cool for a day or three. Repeat as required to rehydrate to desired level.

On second tought, Bob, maybe I ought to just paddle the Haisla Nation out there?