Wax vs Oil Finish

[BamaBob]

Hey Ya'll!

I'm trying to plan ahead on a cedar carving I will be presenting as a gift (12" dolphin). (The wife really likes what I've done so far. I have to carve a bigger, more elaborate dolphin for her!) I've sanded to 180 and will continue to sand to the 350 level. I'm trying to determine which finish is the optimal finish for a cedar carving.

My goal is to have a highly polished/very shiny completed project. A real bonus if the aroma of the cedar is present after completion. If I have to sacrifice the aroma in order to get the desired finish, so be it. If I can get both the aroma and shine - share the secret formula with me.

I've read different primary finishes are available - oil vs wax. One of the suggestions I read was to use wet sandpaper and tung oil. Reading the a reprint of Chris Pye method of finishing uses a wax base system. Since I've scanned most of the information in the forum, I'm now confused more than I was before I started.

What are the pros/cons of wax vs oil finishes on cedar? Since the project will be a gift, minimal future maintenance is preferred.

Thanks in advance for your advice.


Bob

Yes, this is my first post! Howdy Ya'll!

[davidinsarasota]

Hi Bob, welcome.

I've used Pye's beeswax/turpentine method on cedar with excellent results. It gives a nice combination of penetrating the wood to bring out the grain, along with a light surface coat that can be buffed for gloss or left flat. Southern Red Cedar is one of those woods that have enough internal oils to keep from drying out, especially if you have a coating of wax on the surface; additional oil may darken the wood too much, but it is a matter of prefernce. I have not done any maintenance to the piece and it looks fine after 12 years.

[AlArchie]

You have presented two opposing concepts; 1 surface finish, and 2 maintainig the cedar aroma. I don't think the two are compatible, and which one you choose is a matter of which is most acceptable to you.

Note that the "aroma" choice suggests treating with nothing more that cedar oil and the finish folks suggest carnauba wax.

Here's two excerpts from different cedar maintenance sites. One on exterior finish and the other on rejuvenating the cedar aroma.

Occasional Waxing for Cedar Chests
Paste wax applied lightly with a soft cloth keeps cedar chests looking gorgeous. Be sure to follow the directions included with the wax for best results. Generally, you'll want to apply the wax in the same direction with the wood grain. Be sure to buff the wax until it is completely incorporated to prevent streaking and smearing. Carnauba paste wax is especially beneficial for older cedar chests because it can fill in and protect cracks in the finish.
Routine Care Will Keep Your Cedar Chest Tip Top - CedarChests.com

Restoring Aged Cedar Closets
Do you have an old cedar closet or chest that has lost its aroma? Do you think it has to be trashed? Wrong-o! That is the beauty of Eastern Red Cedar. It can easily be restored. Air and sunlight work together to clog the tiny pores of the cedar. This stops the natural evaporation process of the cedar oil. It is this oil in the air that acts as a natural appetite suppressant to the insect larvae.
The restoration process is simple. You merely have to sand the cedar wood with coarse sandpaper. Sand until the aroma returns or the wood turns red again (sunlight and air turn it brown.) Never seal cedar with anything! The only restoration liquid you should ever apply is natural cedar oil extract. It will soak into the wood and give off an intoxicating aroma!
Restoring Aged Cedar

We made small cedar chests in 7th grade woodshop and these were the steps we were taught back then (1956).
Mine is still with me.

Al

[carver33]

Al has given you some great information on maintaining a great finish. However, in order to get a really nice sheen to begin with, I think that you're going to have to go much finer than 320 grit sanding. I've taken pieces as far as 1000 grit with nice results, and some even go much finer with micro mesh sanding sheets.

[AlArchie]

Bill, you are absolutely right! That coarse grit paper should only be used to rejuvenate the cedar aroma in cedar chests, closets, etc. I didn't mean that that should be interpreted to be used as a fine finish.

Al

[carver33]

Al, I didn't mean that comment as a reply to your post (although if you want to maintain a shiny finish, you'll have to follow up with finer sandings). What I was attempting to reply to was Bob's initial statement that he was going to sand to the 350 grit level - and I don't think that's nearly enough to get a fine, lustrous finish. : )

[Canopener]

Well; it is a bit late for me, but I have been working on some scraps of cedar siding, mostly making little hearts. The tung oil finish has worked well for me; but, I sure missed that cedar smell.
Thanks Archie for a great tip.
Jim

[BamaBob]

Hi Gang,

Thanks for the thoughts. It looks like I'll be doing a lot more sanding at least to 1000 grit before starting any finishing. I wasn't sure if I could get both the glossy finish and nice cedar aroma. It was worth asking if it were possible. A wax base finish seems to have the majority vote!

I'll try to post a picture of the completed project.

Thanks for making me feel welcome.


Bob
Excuse me. I need to get some more sandpaper and get to work!

[Robson Valley]

Besides being locally sourced for free, I like western red cedar for the aroma. However, that does not last as long as I would like. At the same time, I feel obliged to protect the carvings from household & valley dust & grime so most every one gets 2x Varathane or various acrylic paints. Hate to do it but.
At the same time, dolphins are wet/shiny/smooth, I'd vote in favor of a waxed gloss.

[jgilfor]

I love tung oil. I use the Minwax product. Depending on the gloss desired, anywhere from 3 to 10 coats may be necessary.

I always start by saturating the wood with the finish. I let it stand wet for about 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe off excess; let that dry overnight.

Next, I use 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper soaked in tung oil to rub into the wood with the grain. Do this for 10 minutes or so. Let dry overnight.

Next day, use 0000 steel wool to do the same thing, and let dry overnight.

At this point, the wood is completely sealed, and you may stop there. A quick buff with steel wool or a light power buffing will give a nice mellow sheen.

If you want a deeper or more glossy finish, add a couple more coats of tung oil (drying one day after each application) using a soft lint-free cloth (I use medical grade cotton sponges; I get 'em for free at work; I'm an anesthesiologist). Wipe off excess, but don't try to "rub in" the oil. It will dry to a glossy, almost plastic looking, finish that can be further buffed and waxed as desired.

This finish is extremely hard wearing and flexible. It will tolerate a lot of expansion and contraction (temperature or humidity caused) without cracking or degradation.

I've heard many say that tung oil finishes darken the wood. With the Minwax product, I get an initial darkening, with extra highlighting of the grain (which I like). After the first application, there does not appear to be any further coloration added, no matter how many more coats you apply. Each coat just gets glossier.