Wax finish

[arfer1943]

I am soon to finish a carving in European Lime (Basswood?).

I intend to 1)seal the wood before light sanding 2) 50% Danish Oil 50% white spirit (paint thinners) and then 3) two coats clear wax.

I have found wax onto wood can be patchy as to quality, oil not quite silky enough.

Any comments from experienced carvers much appreciated.

[Thor]

I am very satisfied with the results from Briwax. It has a solvent in the wax and goes on very evenly.
It is from England, so is probably available in your area.
Welcome to the forum.
Christina

[LBlake]

Just curious, why dilute the oil? I have finished lime in oil & paste wax... and very pleased with the results. If you weren't using paste wax, that may be the solution. However, to be fair, I also sand to a very fine grit...600 or 800 before the oil, then higher grits to a nice shine after oil, then the wax (like briwax) and a buff with a soft cloth.

Maybe I will try more wax and less sanding... I am probably overkill....

[mdallensr]

Woodcraft and Rockler sell Bri-Wax. It is an excellent product. Mike

[arfer1943]

I thought that diluting the oil woulod get it further into the wood......

[mdallensr]

Some carvers use only wax as a finish. Chris Pye suggests that, and he uses a heat-gun to heat the wood that which helps liquify the wax which helps it soak into the wood. Mike

[Dileon]

I use a heat gun to the wood for my beeswax and then buff it down with a buffing wheel. Di

[arfer1943]

Thanks.

Haven't a heat gun, could my wife talk to it instead?

[Claude]

A hair dryer will work - just takes a little longer. A heat gun can actually burn the wood, but a hair dryer isn't that hot.

Claude

[arfer1943]

One problem is that Wax usually is sold in large tins. Newly opened it is OK, but after some time (a year or so), even though tightly closed, the "solvent" seems to have evaporated.

Any ideas on "freshening/replacing" it?