What type of finish should I use

[Bearded]

I pretty new to carving and decided to try to paint one. I picked water colors as I read it would allow the wood grain to show through. Ive now got the painting completed and was wondering what type on finish to put on it. My construction back ground told me to use polyurthane. I found a fast drying low oder spray, but when I tried my test piece I got some yellowing on the white areas (expected), and I also got some bleeding of the colors. I dont really want either of these problems, and since Im using water colors Im afraid to try a water based coating due to more bleeding problems.

*I know there is hundreds of finsh threads, but I tried the search and then went through 17 pages, and never found really what I was looking for. My wife says Im lazy

here's what Im looking for
little to no Yellowing
no bleeding of the water colors
Low odor (wife and kids get sick when I spray poly or stain in the basement).

[Bill102M]

I am by no means an expert, but I carve and paint fairly large pieces. I have found the best method for me is to seal the piece really well before painting. I use minwax spar varnish thinned to 60/40 varnish to thinner. I will put at least two coats of this on the piece allowing it to dry completely. Then I will coat the piece with the same product mixed 80/20 basically sealing the piece and sanding between coats if any grain raises. This gives an excellent base to paint on and eliminates bleeding colours. Yellowing is always there with oil based urethanes. Water based colours and sealers are generally clearer finishes, with less VOC's. But sealing the piece well first makes painting and staining much easier.

[mpounders]

I've never used water colors, so I don't know if my advice applies? I do use acrylic artists paint thinned with water, which may be similar enough. All my bleeding with paints happens when I am painting, but I can control it by several methods. I usually wet my wood before painting to get a smooth flow, but it helps if I use thicker paint or dry it around areas that will be a different color, like with a small hair dryer. A wood burner can be used also to separate different colors and help prevent bleeding, as well as stop cuts, but I still get some every now and then. I usually have better success shaving off that area and repainting with it dry. But it sounds like yours is bleeding after you have painted it? I'm not sure why an oil based finish would cause water based paint to run. I brush on Minwax satin polyurethane, let it soak in for about a minute , and then blot all excess off the carving with paper towels. It doesn't seem to yellow or cause any bleeding. You might try that rather than spraying. Maybe there is something in the odor-free version that is causing it? I usually don't seal mine first, but I'll have to try it and see if I like it.

[telecarver]

I haven't used water colors but this is how I would approach it. Try a test piece and mist on a 2 or 3 very thin spray coats of water based urethane. The water base will not yellow the colors. Brushing will nor work. The colors will bleed when brushed. The goal is to set the paint before trying to get a built up finish. Putting the finish on too thick is what causes the paint to bleed. The finish is dissolving the paint. By putting on the thin coat you are just getting a thin layer over the paint without adding so much finish that the paint dissolves in the finish. After the paint is set by the thin coats you can add thicker coats.

[Robson Valley]

Good watercolor paints are pigment, some watery vehicle and gum arabic. "Water-based" acrylics and varnishes are a different chemistry altogether.
I have painted many glaze transparent w/c washes over other colors. You get ONE PASS with the second brush = any more working and the underpainting will lift for sure. I agree, you could use several light sprays of a varnish but I, for one, don't need the overspray, mask over my schnoz or not.
I'm far better off to mix acrylic paints with either matte medium, water or both, to get thin wash tones on wood. The advantage is that when acrylic dries, it polymerizes. Doesn't come off, doesn't lift even worked over with a second brush a couple of days later.

[Lazy Carver]

Instead of watercolors, might i suggest, Acrylics???... For a water based acrylic finish, you would have to go to an art store to obtain this... Most of what you find in the home centers are for homes, and the finishes aren't made for light fastness and non yellowing... Ive seen some of the Best paints and finishes from home centers, and their best paints will produce a lightfastness of about 30 years or slighty better under nominal UV conditions... If you buy from an art store, even the cheapest brands will give you about 50years light fastness or better... In the case of yellowing, it's all in the pigment and filler.... Encaustics like urethane, linseed oil and such, will always yellow paints... during recent times ive seen alot of artist use the more expensive safflower/walnut encaustic based varnishes.... these have little or no yellowing effect... Paint mfg's seem to be moving in this direction... They do have these in non-yellowing water base finishes... For acrylic paints, the best ive ever used are 'Lascaux', or 'Golden paints'... They have non yellowing finishes as well..... Try Jerry's Artarama, Dick Blick's, Cheap Joe's, Pearl Paint Art Center, Utrecht...... Robson Valley has the right idea!
Good luck, and wishing you....

[AlArchie]

I've used Krylon spray poly over watercolors before and had no noticable yellowing or running. Krylon is an aromatic spray and not water based so there is some odor, but generally it's very mild. Good ventilation helps but if you use it sparingly you can use it indoors with no adverse effects.

One word of caution...if you put on several coats (quite a few) you may get some milkyness especially with the matt finish. Never had that problenm with the gloss, semi-gloss, or satin. And make sure your water based paints are thoroughly dry and in the case of acrylics CURED before you apply the Krylon. You may get a temporary milkyness if you don't wait but USUALLY it will clear after a few days as the acrylic cures under the finish.

Al

[Dileon]

I would use Krylon matte fixative spray with watercolors, I get mine from Wallymart. Which drys fast, but notice you need to spray it super light as it will run the colors. I mean extreme light coats, let each one dry before the next and then a few medium coats. There are some art sprays for sealing things like water color and pencil ....they would have to be bought from an artist supply such as Blick.