Testing Finish for Outdoor wood

[Alice in Wonderland]

Many times the question came up finishings for outdoor here is an article from Jim Kull it may be intersting to some of the carvers
Alice
OUOTE

In a recent post my friend, Steve, made reference to my tests of doggie sprinkling on exterior finishes. I figure after almost a year of testing it is time to post some interesting discoveries.

As a preface, allow me to set the stage. Almost daily there is a posting about clear, exterior finishes for doors, chairs, signs and such. Responses run the gamut from diehard marine finishes to apply a coat of primer and then paint. Each of these has a bit of a problem. Marine finishes are not always the easiest to find and it grieves me to think of a lovely oak, teak, mahogany, fir, redwood or similar nice wood door painted in mauve goop.

Bob from Fl inspired me with his continuing and accurate statements about the failings of a clear coat and the advantages of a good quality exterior paint. I decided after lots of reflection that he really was right but there was always the picture of mauve in my mind. Sooooooooo, how could one take advantage of his advice and yet capitalize on the beauty of a nice wood.

I began to reflect on the characteristics of paint. Now, comes the boredom.

There were several things I knew about paint. Exterior paints contain a mildewcide and a fungicide that a varnish does not. The best quality paints will contain a UV protectorant and trans-oxide pigments in very high percentages. Almost all paint is custom mixed by the store. The retailer maintains a large supply of base products that are used to achieve the desired color. There are generally 4 base products and the specific one for your paint is determined by your color choice. These base products are either named or numbered. They are named pastel, deep, tint and neutral. If numbered it is cleverly 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the exception of Olympic who numbers 1, 2, 3 and 5. Olympic is unaware that 4 comes before 5. Pastel and/or 1 is virtually a pure white and used for the lightest of colors. The others are slightly color altered from white and more translucent than pastel. These are used for succeedingly deeper colors. All of this comes to neutral, 4 and/or 5. These are clear and used for the darkest colors. In the can they are somewhat opaque but dry more or less clear.

Now comes the testing. I bought 4 oak exterior doors. Each door was given one coat of the same MinWax Stain. On 3 of the doors, I applied 2 coats of "base" to the 6 sides of each door (3 coats on the top and bottom edges). Each of these three doors had a different type of exterior neutral, 4 or 5 base. The fourth door was finished with a consumer "spar" varnish from my local friendly paint/hardware store. The bases for the 3 painted doors were an exterior semi-gloss acrylic, an exterior semi-gloss oilbased polyurethane floor paint and a semi-gloss oilbased trim and siding paint.

The doors were set up, slightly inclined, in mostly direct sunlight under a pecan tree in the backyard. My wife just loved that one. Daily, the sprinklers managed to hit the doors. The birds in the pecan tree used the doors for target practice. And, yes, the dogs did anoint the doors on a regular basis. My blonde Cocker, Zazu, was particularly enamored with the doors. Over the course of the test the doors experienced lots of Texas sunlight, rain and snow. The temperature went from below freezing to over 100. The advantage to the inclined position of the doors was the snow, ice, water from the sprinklers and the rain tended to collect in the raised panel areas. I feel these doors were subjected to far more severe environmental conditions than would be expected from normal use.

The results were interesting. The "spar" varnish looked fabulous but after about 2 weeks it began to develop small cracks. In rapid order the door began to turn black, started to mold and the smell was enough to knock a buzzard off of a manure wagon. The waterbased acrylic is milky in the can like a waterbased poly. It dried to a more or less water clear surface but was a bit cloudy. It tended to wash out the stain a bit. Over time it became cloudier and ultimately become almost white. But, it remained solid and protected the wood. The oil based bases are also a bit opaque in the can but dried to a clear finish that is almost identical to a spar varnish - they added an amber tone to the doors. Both the oil based poly floor paint and the oil based trim and siding paint remained "clear" over the entire test period.

The testing came to an end with a bit of encouragement. My wife said something clever like, "Get those damned doors out of the backyard?". She does not understand science. The floor poly had some minor checking and a thinned coat of the same base over the surface made that disappear. The door with the oilbased trim and siding paint was perfect other than it had lost a bit of the gloss.

So, I am with Bob - paint the door. My preference is the oilbased products. If you are predisposed to a waterbased use an acrylic rather than latex.

One thing you will find when you go out shopping for your product is a lack of knowledge on the part of the salesperson. Not many of these folk are aware that their neutral or 4 base will dry clear. If you want to have some fun, spring it on them. They will suggest you are full of Donkey Dust. Ask them to shake a can and put some on a stir stick. Dry it and voila, it is clear.

Jim Kull
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[twoclones]

Wow! That was enlightening. Literally all of my carvings are displayed out doors so I'm happy to have this information and will be trying Jim's recommendation.

Thanks,
Butch

[twoclones]

Originally Posted by Alice in Wonderland

One thing you will find when you go out shopping for your product is a lack of knowledge on the part of the salesperson.

Based on Jim's great experiment, I went to buy some Olympic #5 base and was asked by the sales girl at Lowes why I didn't want pigment added. When I told her I wanted it to dry clear she responded exactly as Jim predicted. "No it won't." So I suggested she try it...

That's when she lost it. This 'child' who would be better off working behind the counter at McDonalds insisted that she had personally put the #5 base paint on a stick and that it dried opaque white. She continued saying, "You don't understand what 'base' means."

At that point I handed a can to her and told her to shake it for me. When home I applied the #5 to pine and poplar woods, dried them over night and applied a second coat. Now that both coats are dry, the paint is completely clear.

I wonder what I did wrong? Apparently I don't understand what 'base' means...

[placher]

I was looking into the Olympic #5 exterior flat base to brush over a garden gnome carving, painted with acrylics. I intend to have the gnome actually in the garden and want him to handle the rain and watering done. Will this work?

[twoclones]

I'm become less enthusiastic over the base paint and have switched back to Spar Varnish. Any carving displayed outside needs to be checked for cracks in it's finish and possibly re-varnished every Spring and Autumn.

[W.duBois]

I add another obstacle for our poor abused finishes.

I am a chainsaw carver in green wood (1 yr dried) with still high moisture content. Worse, often the corewood is still intact, which promotes a lot of stress in the wood.

So, here we have UV-light, rain, snow, frost and sand battering the finish from the outside, and internal wood stresses due to moisture wanting to evaporate from the inside.

Just swabbing on 100% polyurethane or marine/spar finish will not work, the layer is to hard and does not move with the wood, not does it allow the moisture to evaporate, now trapped underneath the finish (more cracking and clouding). My solution is to create a 'long oil mix', 2/3 oil and 1/3 poly. The oil softens the finish, making it move with the wood, and penetrates into the wood, adding extra protection.

What do you think of this?

[twoclones]

I tried applying boiled linseed oil before spar for a while and my experience is that it eventually turns the carving very dark in color. Could be the desert sun we get here...

I carve hardwoods and when the wood is wet, I let the carving surface dry before buning then finish by spraying with thinned spar. I just pour ingredients into the sprayer but it's probably about 4 parts spar to 1 part lacquer thinner or turpentine.

[W.duBois]

Originally Posted by twoclones

I tried applying boiled linseed oil before spar for a while and my experience is that it eventually turns the carving very dark in color. Could be the desert sun we get here...

Odd. I know that BLO turns dark under the influence of sunlight, but the spar should contain UV blockers to prevent just that. But then, the desert sun is unrelenting.

Perhaps you should try Tung oil, I'm curious how Tung oil coated carvings look like after a few years.