[Thomp]

for the curious, the other 6 knives posted.

HERE

[BRIAN D]

Tomp: I've used Deft as a sealer & final coat, with no problems, works well in Northern Michigan, & we have some pretty good swings in temp, but we don't have high heat & humitity. Two thoughts: What about steel wool what you have done & giving another coat, (I'm wondering if the air in the pours of the wood is expanding & causing your bubbles and will be sealed after first coat), what about using a brush on base coat to get sealer into pours then dipping & hang to dry to get even flow.
I used to do the Two part Epoxy finishes on clocks, photos and tables we used a propane torch and passed a flame over them to get air out for smoother finish.
I like your knives, good job. Hope I've helped. BRIAN D

[brianh]

Deft straight from the can is pretty thick stuff.

I use deft on some of the work I do I thin it about 25% and put it in a spray gun.

If it is applied too thick the top dries before the bottom and will bubble if heated as the wood out gasses.

[squbrigg]

Beautiful knives Thomp. You have a real talent there. Do they cut as good as they look?

Well done.

Bob

[makinchips]

I also believe that it's the open grain that is capturing air which is causing the bubbles. I can think of two viable options to solve the problem. First is the use of a grain filler......if the open pores of the wood are filled, no air gets trapped. Traditionally, a paste wood grain filler is used. Here's a link for those unfamiliar with the stuff.....
Amateur Woodworker: Finishes

Another option that would work is to brush on a couple of heay coats, working the brush back and forth to force the Deft into the pores. When dry, sand with a fine finish paper right back down to the bare wood then dip the final coat.

Joe,

Make Chips!

[Ron T]

Hey Thomp,

Beautiful looking blades. Who cares of the handles are blowing bubbles. Next time don't give them the gum in the first place. LOL

[Claude]

Thomas:
I agree that the bubbles are most likely a result of the wood out-gassing. When you dip it, the end grain will suck in that moisture like crazy; as the outside dries a little, the interior then has a higher moisture content than the outside, so the moisture comes back out, and causes a bubble. I haven't used Deft, but when I use a regular MiinWax varnish, I always use a coat of MinWax Sanding Sealer first, then wait a week and apply the varnish. When using acrylic paints, I seal first with a coat or two of satin finish water-based varnish. In both cases, I think the varnish before I apply it; then apply two or more coats.

Claude

[Thomp]

ok, maybe a little insight to how i make the knife handle might help.

taking a pattern or making what i can from what stock i have generally starts with pencil. then to the drill press, and off to the scrollsaw or bandsaw, depending on style and how elaborate it is removing as much waste as i can then off to the drill press to the dumb sander where the shape is almost finished with abrasives...

the blade fit is tested, handle is plastic/paper covered, and taped off, then epoxy into the snug fitting socket the blade is attached. 24 hours later, i return to the cleanup of the tape-epoxy mess and finish sand the handle with several grits of abrasives on sand o flex to level and flatten surface, then tack cloth, and dip in deft, 30 minuets later the deft skim coat dries to touch, but i leave it 24 hours to dry, returning i take the handle to the sand o flex and again smooth sand the handle so the whole surface will grip the next coat of deft, (in this step i sand to wood to remove some imperfections) tack cloth or blow with compressor and dip in deft again, hanging from the blade to drip and dry,
24 hrs later, i hand sand if needed to remove embedded dust or bugs, and dip one final coat.

i have refrained from using sealers due to the sticky problem before mentioned in previous post, thinking i was using incomparable chemical compositions, ive had results of sticky finish, finish fogging to white "filling pores", and now blisters...

wondering if i need to build a vacume chamber, and submerge the knife in deft while pulling vaccume should pull out the air in the wood.

BRIAN D: i think im getting some better understanding. with the blisters, i might dip first coat almost completely leaving some raw wood to vent pressure, then dip final coat complete

brianh: ill get some compatible thinner and cut the deft by 25-50% and see what happens. as i understand, after second coat of deft the pores should be sealed..

squbrigg' : i have tested them all on basswood as i made them, the straight razor knives all carve like butter....

they all cut great, as can be proven by DNA testing, as i cut myself at least once on each blade

makinchips: i agree, anything in volume expands under temperature increase, and air/water increases almost 2:1 ratio to solids given the same conditions.

its terrible to get so old you cant remember simple physics... C.R.S. syndrome i guess..

I guess, another option is to dip the handle in the deft after it cools down in the evening,
BUT, i have always heard from ole experienced painters,
1. never paint after 4:00pm
2 never paint when its raining or foggy.
why? i could never get a logical answer..... i figured maybe job security,

thanks for the comments it gives me other avenues..

[Just Carving]

Thomp

Good description. One thing that caught my eye. The tack cloth is good for removing dust. But it's not going to remove any moisture or hand oils from the surface of the wood. Because I epoxy my tools into my handles, and to remove any grit or oils and moisture to a certain extent, I wipe my hnadles down with acetone before I coat with poly-wipe. Acetone is also used to clean up/remove fresh epoxy. I'm not sure but I think acetone can also be used to clean up lacquer. So, it might give you a better surface for the lacquer to adhere to. Anybody know if what I'm saying is right for sure?

Bob L

[AlArchie]

Thomp, I just read your post about building a vacuum chamber.Wouldn't it be easier and make more sense to simply dry your handles in ambient temps and humidity.

Years back I tried to speed the varnish drying process by putting the freshly varnished pieces inthe sauna at about 110 degrees F. BUBBLES!

So I tried speeding things up by putting the freshly varnished pieces out in the sun.......BUBBLES!

Now I just accept the slow drying process at room tewmps and humidity and have had absolutely no recurrences of the BUBBLES!

I will almost guarantee that those bubbles are caused by drying your handles in that 100 degree shop......take 'em out in the air!

Al