sealing and protecting

blackhorse · #1 06-23-2008, 02:18 PM

I am a soldier deployed in Afghanistan and I am a bit of a newbie. I can't get flamable items like laquers and oil based products sent to me here.(USPS Regulations) Even if I could, I live in a plywood shack with seven other guys so the smell and safety concerns rule out anything like that. I am carving bass wood and I am using a bunch of acrylic paints that I sent over before I deployed. What can I use to seal the carvings before painting and what can I use to finish after painting to protect it. I have tried an acrylic matte varnish but is doesn't seem to have that luster and the glossy varnish I tried when I was still back stateside didn't look right. Can anybody help with some non-hazardous low fume alternatives that will give decent results?

Eddy Smiles · #2 06-23-2008, 08:47 PM

Blackhorse... First off thank you for serving! I take it that anything in a spray can is forbidden so that leaves brush application! And are you saying that you've tried all of the Delta Ceramcoat Gloss, Satin and Matte varnishes (polyurethanes) and you don't like the way they look? If you can't get and use and oil based product then perhaps it's a matter of trying different water based brands. Have you tried Deft products?.... Deft Finishes - The Wood Finish People

blackhorse · #3 06-24-2008, 02:34 PM

Thanks for your response,
I will look and see if they have small cans that my wife can pick up and ship me. Do I need to seal the carving before I paint it? What should I do before painting? I have read that some seal with boiled linseed oil and paint over that (a Pete LeClair book). I have never used it so I don't know except what I have read in carving books. Also what could I use to get that antiqued look that you get with Raw Umber oil paint and boiled linseed oil (a Mike Shipely book)? Can I mix some acrylic raw umber paint in with deft to achieve that same look?

Oh, by the way, I got this weird sparkle on some of my carvings, it looks like glitter. Could that have been from the clean-up I did with sanding sticks. It really looked bad and I know I didn't cross contaminate the paint or water with at brush I use on metalic paints because I keep those seperate. Any ideas?
v/r
Al

wood-whittler · #4 06-24-2008, 03:03 PM

blackhorse,

you can also use min-wax 209 natural stain with burnt umber or burnt seinna in it the same as you would the boiled linseed oil, a little less toxic and dries quicker than blo this is a trick i learned from pete leclair, i have been doing it this way for quite awhile and like it alot, i have done it both ways apply before painting and then painting but if you apply before paint you cant wait long to paint or it will dry and not let the paint soak in, or you can paint then apply the stain mix.

it is very important that you scrub the carving clean before painting,

the weird glitter you are getting, are you by chance using deco-art americana paint if you are then i have had the same happen to me it will go away somewhat when you put an antiquing on it, if you still dont like it then switch to delta ceramcoat paint like i did and i have not had anymore troubles.

hope this helps if you need anything else give me a hollar.

bart

Eddy Smiles · #5 06-24-2008, 03:12 PM

I've expereinced the same thing on some of my finishes. It almost looks like there is a glitter in the paint. I don't know what causes it but my approach to carving is pretty Zen like.... what ever happens happens and if it's there it's meant to be so I don't get too worked up over it. Besides, once I apply a matte or satin protective coat the sparkle effect seems to lessen drastically.

As for the antiqued look I do all my carving in the house as well as the finishing and my wife frowns on smelling oils and thinners in her house so evertyhting that I use has to be pretty inocuous. Therefore I antique my carvings with Delta Ceramcoat water based Instant Age Varnish. You can play with it to make it as dark or light as you wish. I would imagine that you could mix some brown umber paint with a matte varnish and get pretty close to the same product.

As for sealing before finishing....ask that to the forum and you'll end up with 999 different opinions. Personally I do not seal my carvings. If I desire an opaque look I paint them with a wash. If I want my colors to stand out I'll prime them with Gesso or Titanium White. I apply a gloss, satin, or matte water based poly sealer finished coat to all my work.

My recommendation is to try each method on scrap pieces of wood and see which flips your switch. It all comes down to a matter of preference and ease.

BobT · #6 06-24-2008, 04:03 PM

Hi, I think if you are sharing a hooch with others you will want to stay away from the Boiled Linseed Oil, it STINKS. I have been trying to get away from that, and the Minwax Clear Stain. I found this article and really am loving the results.

Rhadigan Painting

I don't know if you can sneak some spray cans over there or not though. I know a couple of friends in Iraq that are getting their booze thru the mail . . .
BobT

blackhorse · #7 06-25-2008, 02:24 PM

Eddy,
I am going to order and experiment with the Deft.

BobT,
I have heard of spray cans making it though the mail around here I may give that a try too. (I remember hearing stories about the booze making it into Iraq when I was there but I never could confirm I guess I didn't know the right people) That site you mentioned made reference to Watco wax, do you use that as well? Anyone have thoughts on that? I may look into ordering that too if it is worth experementing with.

Bart,
You guessed it, I just checked and 60% of the paints that I sent over here are deco-art Americana. I called my wife and she is going to send me the Cream coat primary colors. I have gotten a little better at mixing paints to get the colors I want. The good news is they are cheap enough to send over again and I will be here long enough to get good use out of them.
v/r
al

BobT · #8 06-25-2008, 02:48 PM

The Watco wax is pretty neat. It gives a nice feel to a carving and is really quick and easy to use. It is a solvent based wax though. Not much odor. I am just thinking these things may be harder for you to get over there. I buy it at Woodcraft. I did see it in a Home Depot once (I don't go there anymore).
If you don't like the Matte finish Krylon makes the same spray in semi-gloss and Gloss. The wax gives you a nice sheen, not real shiny though.
I learned about the wax from Mark Gargac, he uses it a lot. Actually Marks entire painting system is pretty nice, but he uses BLO, and I am tired of smelling the stuff.

torpidhummer · #9 06-25-2008, 09:50 PM

Hello Blackhorse first of all thanks to you and rest of your combat buddies both men and women for most courageus service to our country. You are right about boiled linseed oil,it not smells and is highly flameable,including any rags you use if laid out in that hot sun.mini wax as sugested is great and is fairly easy to use. The deft is also good but I guess you can't have it sent to you,I use to use it on my long bows that I made but I would apply serveral coats.
Good luck to you and your buddies and Semper Fi to all the troops.
Oscar

markken5889 · #10 06-26-2008, 09:26 AM

Hey Blackhorse,

I use the multi-surface sealer that JansenArt Traditions puts out, and apply it both before and after painting a piece. It's acrylic so you shouldn't have problems with shipping, or smell. I order mine from The Duck Blind or MDI Woodcarvers; both have good websites.

I admire all you and your other comrades are doing over there. Thanks you, and God bless!

Mark