Sanding Sealer

[Callynne]

I know I've read about sanding sealer being used on here before, but don't know where. Anyone have any advice on it? I'm thinking it might be something I need! As I've mentioned lots of times, I prefer handcarving, but do find rotary has it's place in 'my carving world'....only thing is, I've noticed on practically every piece I carve, a place that looks fuzzy, when I start painting.

Would sanding sealer make that show up before I start painting? Each piece looks in 'painting shape' before I start. I've hand carved away all the heavy 'fuzzy' parts and lightly sanded the piece. I figure it has to be the water based acrylics that is bringing this up. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks! Deborah

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

the sanding sealer brings up the fuzz so you can sand it off before you paint....

[AlArchie]

Callynn, there are at least two types of sanding sealer, aromatic and water based. As Dave said, the sealer raises the grain and the fuzzies, and then hardens them so they can be sanded off with either fine grit paper or steel wool or other fine abrasive material.


I like the aromatic type and have found that Cabot brand likes me best! I'm sure there are other brands that work well, but that's my favorite. I've tried the water based sealers and though they have the advantage of easy cleanup, and no stinky fumes, every time I've tried them, they seem to leave a milky hue to the wood. It may be that temperature or humidity at the time of application is the real culprit, but the Cabot doesn't give me that result. I've also found that the water based stuff tends to raise the grain more than the aromatic, and thus requires a bit more sanding. The aromatic stuff seems to just stiffen up the "fuzzies" so they can be polished off, without raising the grain a lot.

I'd suggest you try both types and see which one you prefer. Part of my objection to the waterbased type is due to he difficulty with the "milky" appearance when I was making some small wood working projects that needed a clear finish over stain. That probably would not make a bit of difference in finishing a carving that was to be painted.

Al

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I have been using the min wax sanding sealer...seems to be ok.

[Bandaid]

Hi-Ho...is minwax sealer water based or oil based?

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

oil base..............

[wade clark]

Deborah,
One note that Al touched on, and may not apply to your beautiful carvings as You usually paint them, but if you intend to stain, rather than paint, the stain needs to be applied before the SEALER is applied...it seals the wood and the wood won't take stain after it's sealed.
Sanding sealer is great stuff. You can also get those fuzzies (and sometimes the wood grain) to stand up by just dampening the piece with water. Of course, they won't be stiff that way, and therefore not quite as easy to sand off, but the wood won't be sealed that way either, if you intend to add stain or carve more later.
Whacha working on now? We all love your carvings and look forward to seeing the next one!
Wade

[Alice in Wonderland]

when I use water bourne finish I always water my wood before ,it has the same effect as a sanding sealer "just cheaper" :-)
Alice

[Callynne]

Thanks everyone, sounds like sanding sealer is just what I need! It's so nice to know just where to come to find out answers to my questions!!

Wade, I just finished a golfer for my brother, I'll be putting pictures of it on my website as soon as he gets it....don't want him to see pictures before he sees the real thing. Should be today or tomorrow.

Yesterday I started roughing out my next piece, in fact, I just put a picture of it over in the WIP. Has a nasty flaw in the basswood, right in his face! Angry Glad I'm painting him....that plastic look comes in handy sometimes!

Thanks again for all the good advice, everyone! Deborah