[Ashbys]

Since I am new to painting ...grumble

I have to ask a question.

Oils give such a natrual luster , but the acrylics drying time really speeds up the process.
But in using the wash style they really give up their brillance.

will the polycoat finish bring the brillance out or is there something better ?

[AlArchie]

Ash, once you put that poly finish, or other varnich, lacquer, whatever, those colors will POP!

Al

[Ashbys]

Thanks Al!

I was concerned , as the oil is so brillant and acrylics seems so dull by comparsion ..

Told you I know nothing about paint

Ash

[Claude]

Even the plain old satin-finish Ceramcoat water-based varnish makes the colors better... And, it drys in a few seconds, especially when you use a hair dryer on it!

Claude

[AlArchie]

One more thing, Ash, you will have to learn to "read" the colors if you are going to do much work with acrylics, because they come out so much brighter when varnished that they may not be exactly what you want, especially if you are looking for a subdued effect.

Al

[Hugh]

Ash, Golden Acrylics put out a Matte Fluid Acrylic, flat or lack lustre, mostly used for birds. Golden also sell fluid Acrylics, this has a rich lustre, I use the fluid acrylics on the bills, feather quills, feet, etc. On the feathers I use the Matte fluid Acrylic

[Ashbys]

Hugh ,
is that what you used on the feather on the staff? That was outstanding .

Al,
Thanks for the heads up. That is only something I will learn with experence, from seeing the difference , but since it seems I am to be dealing with a lot more of this, I will learn. Do the colors change as well with the wood being used ?

Ash

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Okay....After doing a little research, I'll put in my 1 cents worth. Here is the basic difference of the two paints:
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The main difference of acrylics and oil paints is the inherent drying time. Oils allow for more time to blend colors and apply even glazes over underpaintings, etc. This slow drying aspect of oil can be seen as an advantage for certain techniques, but in other regards it impedes the artist trying to work quickly. The fast evaporation of water from the acrylic paint film can be slowed with the use of retarders. Retarders are generally glycol or glycerine based additives. In the case of acrylic paints, the addition of a retarder slows the evaporation rate of the water, and allows for more water to be added and the paint workable, until the retarder has left the film and the paint layer is dry.
Oil Paints have several disadvantages to acrylics, however. First, they tend to require the addition of a toxic solvent, such as mineral spirits or turpentine to thin the paints and clean up tools, though relatively recently water soluble oil paints have been developed for artist use. Secondly, oil paint films become increasing yellow and brittle, and will lose their flexibility in a few decades. Thirdly, the rules of "fat over lean" must be employed to ensure the paint films are durable.
Oil paint is able to absorb more pigment than acrylic because linseed oil has a smaller molecule than acrylic. Oil has a different Refractive Index than Acrylic dispersions. This changes how light interatcts with the paint films.

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This is an excellent explanation of the difference but it also points out something we've be hashing and rehashing about for quite sometime now. BLO!!

I highlighted these two points which are very illuminating. BLO gives oils their brilliance but it also causes the paint to yellow and lose it's plasticity over time while acrylics, by using a different carrier, do not have this problem.

Personally, I like acrylics as I can just about replicate any advantages of oils while still having the ability to do just ablut all the advantages of watercolors. Plus, I don't have to be bothered with paint thinners, turpentine, and the other chemicals associated with oils. Add to this that acrylics are much cheaper and I've got all the reasons I need to stick with them.

As far as acrylics not being as brilliant as oils once I apply the final coat of Polyurethane...no one has ever told me that my paint jobs appear flat or not equal to an oil-job!

[AlArchie]

Ash, the acrylics CAN act a lot like regular watercolors if used as a wash applied directly to wood.......they soak in and act very much like a stain or dye, so if you use them on woods of different colors, you will achieve different effects (colors of the paint).

If you use the acrylics full strength (undilluted) over a base, or primer, or even simply over a bare or sealed wood, there will be very little or negligible differences, as the (most) acrylics are opaque, and cover rather solidly. There are some transparent acrylics but I have not used them extensively and then only over solid primers. They may have some differences in shades if applied over unsealed or raw wood.

One problem???? with acrylics is that if used full strength, they tend to give a plastic look to the finished carving. Probably because acrylic IS a plastic and once it is cured it is impermeable. Like most finishes, water colors excluded, acrylics first "dry", then after a short period of time chemically "cure".

I've experimented with and used watercolors on some canes I have done, and really like the results. You may want to try that, too. It acts as a very colorful stain, but can't be painted over with other watercolors without bleeding. Try Lynn's trick of light woodburning between painted areas to contain the watercolors, too. It works. I learned this in a seminar by Fred and Elaine Stenman, and it has been reinforced by seeing some of Lynn's work with the technique.

Some of our clubs more proficient carvers use analine dyes instead of stains and pant, with some very impressive results. The original analines were highly toxic, but the current crop of either water or alcohol based analines do not carry the same hazzards, so don't be afraid to try them. I've even messed around a bit with fabric dyes as a substitute for stains, and they seem to work ok on sample boards......havent gotten the courage p to try them on an actual carving yet, though.

I like to play around with the various mediums and see how they adapt to my carving. I did do a few with oils and was dissapointed in that they bled over into adjoining colors......probably because I didn't let them cure before going at the next hue. Oh, well..........

Al

[Ashbys]

Al, and Lynn both exceptional information.

Lynn ,
I used the oils , because I had a starter oil kit that I had used once before for the flat white. Also as the base was zinc , I know of the greying effect that would be produced over time. I did not over coat the paint , because I wanted the natual oxidation effect to take place, to give the white a more natural off grey with age. Now at almost two years it is finially stating that process, but it has not yet gained the yellow tinting.

What I did not know was for an oil paint to really cure , is 6 months - a year. So to seal the paint before then you have locked in the oils so they can not cure properly. This could indeed add to the effect of yellowing.

The acrylics do indeed dry quickly to touch , I also understand now about the curing time .

I just finished three with acrylics , I bought the Winsor and Newton acrylics as they were offered in the same tints I used on the first Santa in the oils. I also used Goodys advice and purchased flow media and I muct say , after the spray varinish I am indeed pleased with the results. I thin the paint down enough to make it act like a stain so the wood grain could be seen . I think they came out well.

Anyway here are the four Santa's finished so far .

So for something new to me I am pretty pleased with the results.

Garry