[FINGERS]

What stains works best? I've read about shellac/minwax/oil soluable dye & minerial sprits. It's to confusing for me.

I need simple, like "staining poplar for dummies"

thanks for the help

[AlArchie]

Poplar, as in "tulip poplar", aspen,? If you are referring to aspen (popple, poplar) this wood tends to "splotch" when stained, so I'd suggest a pre-stain wood stabilizer before using any stain. You can get this stuff in any (well, most) good paint or hardware store. After it has dried thoroughly, sand the piece lightly with very fine sandpaper....just enough to take off the fuzzies that will be raised by the pre-stain. Then simply apply any good quality stain. I like the oil based stains, but water based ones should work just as well. Follow the directions on the can. They usually tell you to let the stain set for somewhere around 15 minutes, and then wipe it off. Let it dry and apply a second coat if the finish is not as dark as you'd like.


After the stain has dried, apply whatever finish you decide you like to work with. This will be a personal preference that you will develop after trying a few different ones. The spray finishes work well and dry quickly. Brush on varnishes dry slowly and are a bit more durable, BUT, they tend to run so mayhave "drip" marks.

Minwax is just a brand name.....Cabot is another,and most stores (Ace, Tru-Value, Sears, etc. have their own brands but these are usually made for them by one of those manufactures )

Shellac is an alcohol based sealer and finish, but is not very durable, and does not hold up well in damp conditions or where water will get on the finish.. It is often used as a sealer under varnishes and polyurethane finishes. Orange shellac adds some color and clear does not. True shellac may cause allergic reactions in some folks.

Oil based products need to be used in a well ventilated area, as they release aromatic hydrocarbons as they cure. Hence the development of the water-based finishes. I wouldn't stick my nose in the can and breath deeply, but theydon't require the degree of ventilation that the oil based ones do. Either one wil work well....I like the oil based, but that's strictly a matter of personal preference.

Commercial stains are comprised of a colored pigment suspended in a volatile carrier. They will enhance the grain appearance, but also will cover it to some degree.

Dyes are SOLUTIONS of color, not suspensions, like stains, and will not obscure the grain structure. They are still called analine dyes, and are available in either water or aclcohol based colors. Analine dyes USED to be highly toxic, but the new ones are not true analines and are no where near as toxic. If you decide to use dyes, experiment on scrap pieces as this is not anything like using regular stains.

It really isn't as complicated as it sounds.

1. sand off the fuzzies on your project.
2. apply a pre-stain on woods that tend to blotch (pine, aspen, maple, and a
few others.
3. let that dry, sand lightly.
4. apply stain, let set for short time (in directions)
5. wipe excess off and let dry.
6. apply second coat of stain if not dark enough (follow directions again)
7. when dry apply finish coat product (spray or brush on) (poly or lacquer) It's
really just a matter of preference.
8. apply multiple coats of finish, sand or #0000 steel wool between coats,
letting dry between coats.
BE CAREFULL, Here, as some products have to be re-coated within 2
hours or wait 72 hours. If you are beyond the 2 hour and have not
reached the 72 hour time, the finish will blister and have to be re-done.

Heck, that's not even 10 steps.

Al

[brian bailey]

Here is a link to some interesting information about Shellac.

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/shellac.htm

[FINGERS]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'am headed to the store for some pre-stain.

The carving is a spoon. The handle is a musical note with many twist as in a celtic knot. The bowl is the lower part of a guitiar.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

[Kenny_S]

ALA had some Great suggestions. I use a wadded up piece of bran paper bag, perferable the smaller sacks instead of the sandpaper. Seems, I tend to sand to deeply.

[MelNM]

Fingers, I found a finish that I like, I seal it with Deft, then after that drys use mix Watco natural liguid wax and an equal amount of Watco dark liquid wax, allow it 8 hours to dry, I like the way it came it, I would test it on a peice of wood to get the effect you want

[xsailer]

Boy, that Shellac was interesting. I don't think I need to know that much about it thou.