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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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#1
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When you all talk about using a "wash" how much water do I need to add to my paint to make a wash? And l more question. Does anyone know where I could buy food grade polyurethane? |
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#2
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I thin my acryllic paints to about 8-10 to one. 8-10 parts of water or thinner liquid to one part of paint. Don't know anything about food grade poly. Donna_T
__________________ Donna Thomas has been carving in SW Missouri since 1988... |
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#3
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Thank you for clearing up the paint/wash question I had. I haven't been watering down my paint enough and wasn't satisfied with the outcome. I will try your method. I saw the neatest drinking cups at the KC Renfest. They were simply hollowed out narrow tree limbs to make drinking cups and then they coated bark and all inside and out with food grade polyurethane. They were awfully striking (and horribly pricey!). THought I might try it, but can't find the polyurethane in food grade. |
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#4
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Regarding you Paint wash question. Harley Refsal uses the following method. He will brush the paint on a newspaper page. If you cannot read what is printed, then you do not have enough water added. He wants to see what is printed through the paint. Hope this is helpful. Bob |
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#5
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A wash can be as thin or as thick as you deem necessary. I put some paint on one cup of my paint tray and some water in another. Using an eye dropper I keep adding water till it's right. Test it on some scrap wood. It's going to be a bit different when it dries so experiment a bit. I suppose there are formulas for mixing, but I find it best to work with the paint and water. Sometimes you may want a "wash" that's almost opaque and again you may just want a bare hint of color...or anywhere in between. Al |
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#6
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Archie is spot on with his description. I paint in washes and they run from almost solid to some so think that you can't even see the color.....but it's there!
__________________ Out West Woodcarving Blog: www.outwestwoodcarving.blogspot.com Out West Gallery www.outwestgallery.com |
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#7
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Archie has the best advice...it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Some wash coats will be a little thicker than others...you have to experiment.
__________________ Bob My etsy shop: RWK Woodcarving http://www.rwkwoodcarving.etsy.com My email: rwkoz51@gmail.com |
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#8
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Ah, the advice of hindsight. Right on. While there are some standards for pigment formulations, the vehicle, the carrier, composition varies from one maker to the next. I've got 4 or 5 brands of acrylics. . . . all different when it comes to thinning and mixing wash colors. Last week, I had the presence of mind to plane a scrap of western red cedar. .. . to test the appearance of the wash colors (Payne's Gray)I wanted to use. Some too pale and some far too dark. Fish back & fins. When the exhibition gets unpacked and stood up, I'll get some pix. |
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#9
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Thank you for the help. I think I was just too timid in experimenting. I've got scrap material to try it out on and will do what you all suggest. |
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#10
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I Googled Food Grade Poly and found Ez - Do Polyurethane Gel Cider and Fruit Press Accessories - CIDER AND FRUIT PRESSES - By Jaffrey #EZ - 662969592059 at Homestead Helpers Hope this helps.
__________________ Bob Blaney Dover DE Please visit my website Robert A Blaney - Clocks and Fine Furniture Learning more about carving from the folks on the forum. "Don't give up, don't ever give up" - Jimmy Valvano |
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