paint and finish on relief carving

[Thor]

I have carved a design in white pine and painted the raised parts with acrylic paint. Â*I would like to oil the exposed wood, but I know I can't oil the acrylic paint...at least I don't think I can. Â*Can I wax over the paint for adequate protection or do I need to carefully apply polyurethane over the painted part and oil the rest. Â*The design is detailed with a lot of negative spaces. Â*I'll wax over the wood parts after I apply either linseed oil or tung oil. Â* :-/
Any experience with this would be appreciated. Â*
Thor Â*???

Thor,
I came to ask the almost the same question. I had emergency knee surgery to start the year, so my carving has moved indoors and reduced in size. I have carved a cane handle which I hope to use when the crutches are no longer required. The design on the front of the cnae is paitriotic and I have begun acrylic paint the red,white, blue and gold trim. I had planned to oil the balance of the piece. First I never thought of the reaction between the oil and the paint but is oil a good finish on my mahogany cane handle.
Thanks to whoever can help Thor and I.

Ah Chip

Thor,
First, did you seal the areas where you painted with acrylic paint? If not no mater what you use to cover the carving it will turn the paint darker by at least two shade's. If you used a wash to paint the areas then it won't be as strong. I would sugest trying the combinations you speak of on a scrap of wood before you put it on the carving. Be awear that the pine will change color with expouser to sun light reguardless of what you use.

[woodenleg]

It is accepted technique to use BOILED Linseed oil over acrylics. I like to let them 'cure' beforehand, but have done it fairly quickly after painting. I haven't tried it on Pine, so you may want to test it first.

Most paintings I have seen mix the boiled linseed with a dark oil paint (such as raw umber, I believe) as a stain. Some use polyurethane on the face first to preserve the bright coloring of the face. Otherwise, it does get darker and looks more like an antique, a nice finish for most pieces.

Read the directions ( Â* ) for using boiled linseed since it is highly combustible.

Thanks for the responses. Â* I usually finish my pine relief carvings in Tung oil. Â*I use boiled linseed oil occasionally, but I didn't realize that it could be used over acrylic paint. Â*This project was inspired by the Jelling Rune Stone and has a mythological beast that I have gessoed and painted bright blue, yellow and red. Â*It's really tacky like the Vikings would have done.. The opaque paint really isn't successful in my opinion ... Â*too flat looking, and from now on, I'll use oil pigments and be able to oil over them easily. Â*This one may require polyurethane to seal it, but I'd like to try the linseed oil instead. Â* I've heard a lot about washes in acrylics being used for stain color and then oiled over. Â*Does this finish have a lasting effect? Â*

If you are still concerned about the conbination of the oil and acrylic, I use a matte finish deft on my carvings first. One coat, rub with wrinkled paper bag and then another coat and the paper bag. Then feel free to use your boiled linseed oil with the burnt umber. It gives a rich 'antiqued' appearance I think you will like. Happy carving. Pam