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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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#1
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Hey there, I'm not too thrilled with the finish I'm getting with satin Deft. I think it would be OK on a large piece, but as I carve small figures it just doesn't look right. Any suggestions as to a low gloss or flat sealer? Dan |
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#2
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I follow Lynn Doughty's advice and use only the small cans of Miniwax satin polyurethane. I will spray Deft satin occasionally, but only in light coats and if I am trying to lightly seal something or if it is bark. I finish all my other carvings, painted or not, by brushing on a heavy coat of the polyurethane, and then immediately wiping off the excess with paper towels. It really gives a nice flat finish, but it brightens the grain and acrylic colors beautifully. Spraying seems to make it puddle in the crevices and corners, and is a little shiny for me. The small cans of polyurethane are enough for several projects and don't thicken up too much from not being used. You want it fresh and thin, so that it absorbs well and doesn't give a yellowish tint, like older and thicker poly might.
__________________ Mike P. "Life is a song, sing it!" Mother Teresa http://mpounders1.blogspot.com/ http://centralarkansaswoodcarvers.blogspot.com/ |
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#3
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I'll give that a shot. Thank you, Dan |
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#4
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Why not just use a penetrating oil or thinned down polyurethane that would soak in more and wipe off easier? (I'm really asking, not suggesting, I've only got experience with furniture finishing)
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#5
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I have never experimented with tung oil or any danish oils, but I might be concerned about longevity or effect on colors. You can indeed thin the polyurethane, but a fresh can is the right consistency and is quite easy to wipe off. It does get quite sticky when it is not fresh and thin. Ian Norbury uses this method on his realistic natural wood carvings and Lynn Doughty uses it on his painted caricatures, so I figured if it was good enough for them, it ought to work for me too! I experimented a bit with boiled linseed oil mixtures when I first started, and it didn't look too bad when I did the caarvings. But several years have passed and those carvings do not look so great now! The polyurethane's ones look like they were newly completed.
__________________ Mike P. "Life is a song, sing it!" Mother Teresa http://mpounders1.blogspot.com/ http://centralarkansaswoodcarvers.blogspot.com/ |
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#6
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That's great to know. My first thought was oil but it sounds like polyurethane is definitely the way to go. Thanks |
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#7
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Dan, are you using the spray satin? Keep a little distance from the carving, and it seems to dull out better. Tom
__________________ Www.spokanecarvers.com |
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#8
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I've said before...I like the Krylon spray poly. They make it in gloss, semigloss, satin and matte, so you have a good choice of finishes. The reason I like the Krylon is simple...you can recoat ANYTIME. The Minwax finishes are great but recoats must be applied within 2 hours or you have to wait at least 72 hours between coats. Al |
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